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A match made in Brittany

Don't let bad advice deter you from trying Muscadet

By Helena Baker
For The Prague Post
February 6th, 2008 issue

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Don't say Muscat. A good Muscadet at Brasserie M.
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Wine from the Muscadet region has long been confused with Muscat by the, shall we say, less well-educated sommeliers of Prague. I have overheard many customers of decent restaurants being informed that it is the wrong choice to accompany fish, for instance, due to its aromatic sweetness.
Yet there can be few wines more appropriate to marry with seafood than the steel-dry wine from vineyards around the town of Nantes, at the mouth of the Loire on the Atlantic coast.
The Pays Nantais is Brittany’s only wine region. It boasts a temperate climate with scattered frosts and, along with Champagne, the fewest hours of summer sunshine in France.
Until the middle of the last century, cheap wine for daily consumption accounted for the entire production capacity. Known for high acidity, these bottles seldom ventured outside Brittany. But, thanks to the efforts of the Sauvions and others, wines from the region have gained appreciation the world over.
Credit technique for much of the zing and newfound overall charm of the best examples. Wine is left on its lees, in a process referred to as sur lie, rather than being racked off after fermentation. Lees are in fact the dead yeast cells, which impart additional depth and freshness to the wine, while at the same time adding a delicate spritz from carbon dioxide embedded in the sediment.
Most Muscadets should be poured young. At their best, the variety presents zesty citrus and apple aromas.
One would, naturally, recommend enjoying a fine Muscadet on the Breton coast with a plate of oysters while watching the sun set. But we can’t always be where we’d like, can we?
Winery of the month: Znovín Znojmo
With an annual production of 4 million bottles, Znovín is one of the largest and therefore most influential wineries in the county. The firm was founded in 1953 as a state cooperative, but made its first appearance in its new guise in 1990, soon after the revolution. Headquartered in the sleepy village of Šatov, Znovín picks from the best wine tracts in the area, including its own Šobes vineyard — right in the former no-man’s-land where workers were closely watched while toiling along the Austrian border in days gone by. The winery also possesses a number of prime historical sites, such as the Kruciform cellar in Přímětice, the Tokay-type cellar in Jaroslavice and its impressive visitor center within the monastery of Loucký klašter in Znojmo itself. Management actively encourages visitors, who can go to these and other places of interest (try the painted cellar and Moravský sklípek restaurant in Šatov). The company also has a number of its own franchised wine shops and mail-order sales.
You will find Znovín on wine lists and wine shop shelves throughout the country. The top range, including so-called archive wines, often fetch huge prices at auctions. Znovín’s Pinot Gris 1993 was served to Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh during their 1996 visit. For more information, check www.znovin.cz.
Wines of the month
Foreign red: Evo 2004, Vino de la Tierra, Ribera del Queiles, Spain
Producer: Hijos de Guelbenzu
Guelbenzu Evo wines are said to be touched by fresh wind from the Pyrenees. Made from a cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Merlot and reared in French oak barrels, the wine develops a deep cherry color. Its palate is complex with spiciness and a hint of licorice stepping to the fore. Excellent with roasted meat or mature cheese. (495 Kč/$28)
Local white: Riesling 2006 Selection (výběr z hroznů)
Producer: Spielberg Winery, Archlebov
Pale and youthful, with lemony tinges. An intense nose, which is typical of top-quality Rieslings: floral, reminiscent of linden flowers. Flavors follow up with citrus, honey with a touch of refined minerals. Deliciously refreshing at 12 percent alcohol, elegant and long. (250 Kč)
Events diary
The president and government of the “Free Federal Republic of Kraví Hora” cordially invite all citizens and friends of this self-styled independent statelet to their representative ball on the evening of Feb. 29. Converge on Kulturní dům Bořetice, one of the leading wine villages of south Moravia, near Velké Pavlovice. The fun begins at 8 p.m. A live band will be on hand to ensure a good time. For more information, check www.republikakravihora.cz
Helena Baker’s wine column appears the first Wednesday of each month. She can be reached at features@praguepost.com


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