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Looks aren't everything

For one ugly creature, monkfish is also a very tasty dish
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

January 23rd, 2008 issue

Let’s face it: Monkfish is just plain nasty to look at.

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST

A rare treat, certainly, but the highly prized catch turns that special gathering into someting extraordinary. enlarge

Some fishermen call it the “allmouth,” due to its massive head and equally gaping mouth. Springing from this warty bulk are long spines, one of which sports a growth that waggles as a lure — other fish being the primary diet of the monkfish. They are so repellent that few shops will sell one whole.

But the fish also has a wonderful, almost sweet flavor, vaguely reminiscent of lobster. Any treatment of refined seafood — such as dressing with truffles — also works well with monkfish. The meat is firm, adapting well to almost any preparation technique.

Demand for this once-scorned fish now puts it at risk of overfishing. So consider this a dish for special occasions.

Jiří Štift is chef at Alcron in the Radisson SAS, located at Štěpánská 40, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 222 820 038

MONKFISH BAKED IN ROSEMARY

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:

For Monkfish:

600 grams Monkfish filet, cleaned

4 sprigs fresh rosemary

Maldon sea salt (or other sea salt)

Butter (melted and room temperature)

Ground white pepper

For chicory:

400 grams chicory

Fresh thyme

Butter

Sugar

Grand Marnier

Port

White wine

For the foie gras:

250 grams white duck liver

Maldon sea salt (or other sea salt)

Fresh ground pepper

For chicken sauce:

Bones and wings of two chickens

1 liter chicken stock

1 each carrot, onion, parsnip

100 grams celeriac

100 grams wild mushroom

1 clove garlic

Fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Black peppercorns

Butter

Salt

For wild mushrooms:

400 grams wild mushrooms

1 shallot

1 clove garlic

2 sprigs fresh thyme

One half-bunch fresh parsley

1 tomato, peeled and seeded

Butter (melted and room temperature)

Salt and pepper

Preparation:

For the monkfish:

Cut monkfish into four portions, pat dry and season with salt and pepper.

Melt butter in pan and sear fish on both sides.

When golden, remove from heat; add a generous slice of fresh butter and rosemary sprigs.

Roast fish in oven preheated to 180 C for approximately four minutes.

For chicory:

Split chicory root lengthwise, remove stalk and slice into wide strips.

Blanch in salted water then pat dry.

Saute chicory in butter; add sugar and thyme sprigs, continuing until dark and golden.

Splash with port and allow to cook away.

Add Grand Marnier (a large splash) and again allow to cook away.

Add white wine to cover bottom of pan.

Reduce heat and allow wine to reduce slowly.

Season with salt and pepper.

For the foie gras:

Season liver with salt and pepper and place in a very hot pan (no oil or butter).

Sear on one side until golden-dark then turn liver.

Remove pan from heat and allow liver to finish in pan.

For chicken sauce:

Prepare a base with vegetables in butter over heat.

Add wings and bones, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme, sliced mushrooms.

Add chicken stock.

Bring to a boil and allow to cook for about three hours, or until reduced to one-third of original volume.

Strain sauce and reduce on stovetop to 2 deciliters.

Season with salt and pepper and mix in a generous slice of butter.

For wild mushrooms:

Clean and slice mushrooms then sauté in melted butter over high heat.

Reduce heat when mushrooms take on golden color.

Add thyme, a few slices butter, minced shallot and minced garlic.

Slowly sauté until shallots and garlic are soft, but not brown.

Season with salt and pepper.

Prior to serving, add minced parsley and tomato.

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