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July 5th, 2008
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Just about right

When La Veranda misses, it's not by much
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By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
January 23rd, 2008 issue

La Veranda

Elišky Krásnohorské 10
Prague 1–Old Town
Tel. 224 814 733
Open Mon.–Sat. noon–midnight, Sun. noon–10 p.m.

Food **
Service ****
Atmosphere ***
Overall ***

KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
Worth a visit for steak and more: Veteran chef Radek David shows off his handiwork at the Old Town standard.
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FROM THE MENU

Duck pate 220 Kč
Fish soup 195 Kč
Foie gras terrine 295 Kč
Parmesan risotto 260 Kč
Braised mussels 345 Kč
Steak 480 Kč
Monbazillac blanc (with foie gras) 145 Kč

La Veranda may not stand up to the recent hype on the street, but permit two arguments in its favor.
The steak, first of all, matches just about any cut served in Dallas, the world capital of luxurious red meat. Ordered rare (much to the server’s chagrin), it was delivered absolutely right — the dark outside crust mottled with char marks, the inside glistening in rich magenta tones. Wide, smooth fibers fall away on the tongue. The flavor is natural, almost grassy, seasoned only by a few crystals of mild sea salt.
It’s a filet worth savoring, a piece of good meat plated as a centerpiece, supported only by a drizzle of Bordelaise sauce, tannic and meaty. It’s about time someone in this city learned to appreciate the beauties of oh-so-brief contact between beef and a searing hot grill.
Then there’s the service. Even before you place an order, the staff has already moved from formal greeting to chatty familiarity, like longtime acquaintances. They woo with a welcome drink of Bohemia Sekt and express mock chagrin if you skip dessert.
On one visit, a server even piled reading material on the table, worried that I would be bored as I awaited the arrival of my first course.
No need — you’re given decent bread and a complex Sicilian olive oil before the meal begins.
The remainder, however, can seem a little hit-and-miss. Duck pate, for instance, begs for something to break the monotony, to enliven its dry, flat character. Somehow along the way, its rustic, gamey notes have been lost, so the accompanying red onion relish merely laps over dead flavors. On the other hand, foie gras terrine paired with fruit chutney offers a burst of full-bodied, earthy sweetness. Halfway through each bite, the fruit loses its dominance and begins to sink as mellow, husky foie gras enters the mix. Creamy terrine lingers on the finish, cleansed by a sip of the suggested Monbazillac blanc.
A massive bowl of mussels, braised until delicate in white wine and hefty seasoning, ends up as tender bits overwhelmed by the potent broth — not at all unpleasant, just lacking dimension.
Perhaps the “almost there” feeling I gleaned from three meals is best summed up by a bowl of Parmesan risotto. Achieving perfection with this fat Italian rice remains, along with soufflé and Southern fried chicken, one of the more difficult of culinary goals.
Risotto is labor-intensive, requiring sensitivity to the unique properties of Arborio, Carnaroli and other varieties. The aim is firm rice surrounded by moisture, clingy grains that somehow cling to their individual character, with al dente texture realized through slow cooking.
At La Veranda it’s a hearty, filling dish. The talons of white wine leave traces in the rice, as does the rougher, saltier stock — nice in combination. One just expects more sharpness from Parmesan. The promised pesto, while avoiding a no-show, manages to duck into a hidden corner. It whispers for a bit of extra help, perhaps from a dash of truffle oil to plunge flavors deeper. And the cooks let the rice itself drift a little beyond al dente.
But really, they miss only by a few degrees — not enough to topple from Prague’s upper echelon.
Unless, perhaps, La Veranda’s seafood soup washes away all that good rapport, as any sad amalgam of fish and mussels will do. Substituted for promised scallops, only one of three mussels opened. The broth permeated everything, turning even robust salmon into brackish, indistinguishable hunks. It’s a thin bouillabaisse, with extra salt.
Best to forget the soup, but not the restaurant itself.
La Veranda has a track record and a listing in Michelin’s famed red guide (the 2007 guide being part of the stack that was plopped in front of me). Local gourmands have exited recently praising this or that from the menu, basking in the restaurant’s positives.
As I see it, that includes its instinct for comfort, a cozy and colorful interior, some very good dishes and one really great steak.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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