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November 20th, 2008
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Here's the beef

An upscale treat, tartare was the first burger
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

January 16th, 2008 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
Both flavor and color pop from one of chef Danzinger's favorite presentations.
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According to legend, barbarian hordes riding the steppes kept meat secure by placing it on their horses under a hide or blanket — a method which, as horse and rider pounded across the plains, also tended to pulverize tough cuts.
Whatever its origins, tartare has more sophisticated connotations in many cultures today. Versions served at upscale restaurants present an exquisite blend of rich, fatty, almost creamy beef with intricate seasonings.
Still, it’s beef tartare’s rougher side that people cherish every time they try that all-American staple, the hamburger.
As the story goes, German cooks first began frying patties of tartare, a dish that became known as the Hamburg steak. Sailors trading in New World ports introduced Americans to this favorite in the post-colonial era — although German settlers could just as easily have spread the dish across North America. By the early 1900s, diners in the United States offered it in sandwich form.
But it all started with the tartare. Nothing brings the full, masculine taste of beef to the fore more than a good piece, finely chopped. And nothing allows spices, herbs and other seasoning room to express themselves in quite the same way.
Reinhard Danzinger is chef at Il Giardino, located in the Movenpick Hotel, Mozartova 1, Prague 5–Smíchov. Tel. 257 154 262.

BEEF TARTARE EMILIANA

Ingredients:
280 grams (9.8 ounces) beef tenderloin, pared
20 grams Dijon mustard
30 grams cornichons (gherkins)
20 grams tomato ketchup
20 grams small capers
20 grams sun-dried tomatoes, drained if in oil (reserve half for garnish)
40 grams Kalamata olives (reserve four for garnish)
8 grams fresh basil (reserve a few leaves for garnish)
10 grams Parmesan, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
20 milliliters (0.7 ounces) extra-virgin olive oil
5 grams parsley leaves
1 anchovy filet, drained and cleaned
1 small shallot
1 clove garlic
1 small chili, seeded
Half a lemon
12 slices white bread, toasted (butter optional)
10 grams pesto for garnish (optional)
Salt and pepper
Preparation:
Chop beef into pieces and put in a very clean mixing bowl; place in refrigerator.
Finely chop cornichons, basil, garlic, shallot, anchovy, chili, capers, parsley and sun-dried tomatoes.
Combine all in a bowl with fork and season with salt, pepper and five to six drops lemon juice.
Add olive oil and mix thoroughly, for about two minutes.
Place mixture in freezer for five to 10 minutes.
Shave Parmesan with a vegetable peeler or mandolin.
Plate tartare, scatter with cheese shavings and decorate with reserved tomatoes, olives and basil (also pesto, if desired).
Toast bread just before serving.
 


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