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Nothing gruff

Goat cheese is delicate — and very popular
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

January 3rd, 2008 issue

Goat cheese is tremendously popular. As a result, it’s difficult to find a restaurant that doesn’t bake, grill, marinate or roll slices of it in pastry.
VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
A turn on the grill transforms the creamy curd into a golden brown centerpiece.
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But goat cheese has been a favorite since the dawn of recorded history. The Greeks, for instance, prepared a number of recipes based on goat’s or ewe’s milk curd. Its fame today may stem from the delicate texture and unique, often subtle tartness people often associate with certain styles.
You can find goat cheese in many forms, however: soft with the familiar downy rinds, hard cured, feta, aged and blue-veined. There are even cheeses produced from a blend with cow’s or ewe’s milk. Italians make ricotta from the whey of goat’s milk. The region around Lyon in France is justly famous for a strong cheese mixed with brandy, thyme, tarragon and other seasonings.
When considering wine to accompany goat cheese, the reason for its resurgence in popularity becomes even more apparent. Light, easy-drinking reds, dry whites and whites with a dry, fruity edge often work nicely.

Marek Mráz is chef at Lehká Hlava, a vegetarian restaurant at Boršov 2, Prague 1-Old Town. Tel. 222 220 665.

 

GRILLED GOAT CHEESE WITH WALNUTS

(Serves four)
Ingredients:
400 grams (four slices) goat cheese
250 grams fresh spinach leaves, blanched
4 tablespoons chopped walnuts, toasted
Salt and pepper to taste
Leafy greens and a tomato cut into wedges for garnish
For the potato gratin:
1.2 kilograms (2.65 pounds) potatoes, peeled and sliced thin
3 deciliters heavy cream
1 tablespoon and one pinch of salt
1 pinch pepper
1 pinch nutmeg
1 sprig Fresh rosemary leaves (or to taste), chopped fine
1 clove garlic, minced
Preparation:
Potato gratin:
Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Celsius (300 degrees Fahrenheit).
Sprinkle sliced potatoes with one tablespoon of salt and let stand to draw out excess moisture
After several minutes, squeeze the potatoes to get yet more liquid out of them and drain
Line a baking dish with baking paper.
Pour cream in a mixing bowl and season with a pinch of salt, pepper and nutmeg and mix with the potatoes
Add garlic and rosemary and mix.
Transfer into the baking dish, spreading the mixture evenly in a layer about 3 centimeters thick
Cover dish with baking paper (ensured even cooking) and bake for 50 minutes
Remove baking paper from the top, increase temperature to 180 degrees Celsius and bake for additional 10 to 15 minutes to brown the top
Cut into four portions, squares if possible
Goat cheese:
Blanch the spinach leaves with boiling water
Drizzle spinach lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste
In a nonstick skillet with a bit of olive oil, brown the sliced goat cheese (one side only)
Now take a portion of potato gratin, set up in the middle of a plate
Add a layer of spinach and top with the grilled cheese, browned side up
Sprinkle with chopped walnuts
Garnish with leafy greens and tomato


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