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The beautiful bulb

Leeks are a kinder, gentler version of the everyday onion
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

November 28th, 2007 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
Like shallots, leeks add a subtle twist to sophisticated dinner recipes.
Winter and spring are the peak season for leeks, a bulb plant hardy enough to thrive in difficult climates and welcomed by chefs around the world. Indeed, this is a recipe Kampa Park adapted from Alain Ducasse, owner of several Michelin star restaurants.
While similar to shallots and scallions, leeks possess a character more subdued and sweet than its cousins. Because of this, they match well with fish, potatoes and other delicate ingredients. Unlike onions or scallions, leeks do not intrude on softer flavors and you often find them in recipes from regions known for seafood, lamb or other intricate meats.
Size matters when buying leeks. Larger ones may have a tougher, denser texture. And it’s best to seek out those with nice white bulbs and necks. Avoid any wilted or off-color samples.
Marek Raditsch is executive chef for the Kampa Group. This recipe is from Kampa Park, located at Na Kampě 8b, Prague 1–Malá Strana. Tel. 257 532 685.

SEA BASS

WITH LEEK CONFIT
(Serves four)
Ingredients:
➤4 sea bass (approximately 180 grams each)
Olive oil
Salt
Sauce:
2 shallots
2 cloves garlic
1 bunch fennel
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 tablespoons butter
10 centiliters white wine
Beef broth (as needed)
Fish broth (as needed)
10 coriander seeds
10 black peppercorns
2 tablespoons cream, cool
1 potato
A pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
Leeks:
4 large potatoes
2 leeks
100 grams truffles
100 grams melted butter
Salt
Preparation:
Clean four large potatoes and cut into thin slices.
Place in a baking dish and pour melted butter over potato slices.
Bake for 45 minutes in oven heated to 80 C.
Cut white part of leeks into thick slices.
In a pot, bring water to a boil and add salt.
Place sliced leeks in water and boil for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile chop shallots, garlic, fennel and potato then add all sauce ingredients (except for butter, cream, salt and pepper) to a deep pan and bring to a boil.
Lower heat immediately to simmer; make certain there is enough broth to cover fish.
Brush cleaned fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper; add to sauce (being careful to keep no higher than a simmer).
Allow to simmer until fish is done, then remove fish from sauce.
Remove leeks from water and drain; when potatoes are done, add to dish.
Chop truffles finely and add sprinkle on leek/potato dish, reserving some for fish sauce.
Sieve fish sauce through a fine colander into bowl.
Stir in cream, butter, finely chopped truffles, salt and pepper.
Continue stirring until it thickens.
 


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