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Power to the people

Grand Restaurant 2008 guidebook hits the stands, plus other tidbits

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
November 28th, 2007 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Here's to the country's best: Marek and Miroslva Ruzicka of U Lipy, Allegro's Andrea Accordi and Pavel Maurer.
Grand restaurant guide top 10

People's choice Experts' choice
➊ U Lípy Allegro
➋ Sarah Bernhardt La Degustation
➌ Francouzské Restaurace Alcron
➍ Auberge de Provence Bellevue
➎ Promenada U Kastelána
➏ Hradčany Flambee
➐ Miyabi Essensia
➑ La Degustation Francouzské Restaurace
➒ Allegro V Zátiší
➓ Alcron La Rotonde & Le Terroir

Debates rage in the so-called “foodie” world over the value of popularity contest dining guides, such as the famous Zagat publications in the United States.
Based on votes by anonymous restaurant goers, they are marred, according to some, by their very accessibility. Restaurant owners, friends of the same and people of plebeian tastes affect the standards of these guides. For others, the latter is an attractive feature. Putting aside efforts to “stuff the ballot box,” so to speak, common preferences find some sort of cultural comfort level — food not too stuffy, not too bad.
“Majority speaks,” says Reinhard Danzinger, chef of Il Giardino in the Movenpick Hotel, “so we should believe that this represents something like the public opinion.”
Danzinger isn’t convinced, necessarily. But Pavel Maurer, publisher of the annual Grand Restaurant guide, sees the book as a reflection of “the taste of our country.” After all, he adds, “normal people go to restaurants, not just the experts.”
The 2008 edition, due to hit magazine racks Dec. 1, features a top 10 list selected by experts, in addition to the consensus ranking. Beyond that, the people rate about 400 other dining spots. While some 530 unknown folks sent in their thoughts for the popular side, Maurer recruited 25 to submit choices in the expert poll, all named in the guide’s opening pages, including chef Radek David, Prague Post wine columnist Helena Baker, Maurer and myself.
It’s Maurer’s way of providing a point of comparison — although he sees little difference in the two sets (see chart).
Looking at the results, member of culinary group La Chaine des Rotisseurs Nigel Mort (also one of the expert voters) decides the usefulness of any guide “depends on why you’re going out in the first place,” he explains. It’s a well-organized guide in that respect, Mort continues, with symbols indicating patios, live music and other extras.
While a handy reference point, he adds, “I think it could be more oriented to the food.”
Andrea Accordi, chef at Allegro, recognizes trends in the publication of guides like Grand Restaurant. The selection of U Lípy, he says, “is a good indication that the general public is looking for Czech food and a Czech experience, that there is a kind of ‘Czech cuisine revival’ in the local market.”
This year, Maurer confirms, “people gave more preference to the ‘family atmosphere’ restaurants — smaller, not luxurious, not so expensive.”
But those are Czechs, a handful of expats and perhaps some friends of restaurant owners — maybe tired of the attention paid to high-end openings, the glut of sushi places, fusion cuisine and so on. The inconsistencies from year to year, however, bother some. Last year, for example, Allegro topped the people’s list. The Radisson’s two restaurants filled in at spots two and three. Sarah Bernhardt, meanwhile, scored a mediocre 2.2, placing it a notch behind the middle of 399 establishments.
“I don’t believe more in this guide than an additional benchmark for me as a chef,” Danzinger says. “It’s nice to get awards, but does not make me mad if we do not get rated.”
Accordi worries more about professional recognition. “Food critics,” he points out, “look for a different culinary experience.” Or, as Jiři Štift, chef at Alcron and La Rotonde in the Radisson puts it, “different people, different tastes.
“If some clients use the guide to the restaurants, we’re happy.”
Either way, Maurer’s Grand Restaurant guide has a lot to offer. Despite possible shortcomings, he does not solicit from establishments. And he tries, each year, to increase the voting population in an effort to make the ratings more democratic. It is, as Mort said, a useful tool.
Grand Restaurant 2008 is available December 1. You can also order online at www.grand-restaurant.com.
Other entries
The stellar Prague 4 expense account destination, Le Pavillon (in the BB Centrum complex) hosts a wine tasting Nov. 29 starting at 4:30 p.m. Featured are Rieslings from Saarburger Rauch and Ockfener Bockstein. The cost: 300 Kč. Call 607 267 388 for more.
Look for yet another sushi restaurant, set to open soon in Be Kara Ok!, the Prague 2 karaoke bar.
Seems a dispute between the owners led to an abrupt cancellation of Thanksgiving dinner at Fraktal just days before the event.
Final (slurred) words
On a sad note, it looks as though Gott Gallery removed the classic self-portrait of the man, Karel Gott, carrying (apparently) a pair of tube socks stuffed inside a pocket. Sure, the food is inoffensive, wine reasonable and prices fair, but that painting stood out.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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