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Two of a kind

Japanese restaurants share similar problems
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By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
November 21st, 2007 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Toshiharu Miyazaki of Mash Hana with his handiwork.
Mash Hana

Badeniho 3
Prague 6–Hradčany
Tel. 224 324 034
Open Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–11:30 p.m.

Food **
Service ***
Atmosphere **
Overall **

FROM THE MENU

Nigiri 70–150 Kč
Maki (6) 80–290 Kč
Sashimi (5) 200–550 Kč

Nagoya

Stroupežnického 21
Prague 5–Smíchov
Tel. 251 511 724
Open Mon.–Sat. 6 p.m.–11 p.m.

Food *
Service *
Atmosphere *
Overall *

FROM THE MENU

Nigiri 55–120 Kč
Maki 110–290 Kč
Sashimi 160–410 Kč

A friend of mine has this insufferable habit of trusting in sushi joints. Whereas down-and-dirty pubs may cut corners, she’s fond of pointing out, restaurants carving “bad sushi” would not survive long.
She is, of course, implying something akin to “infested and perhaps deadly carcasses” rather than “decent but not ready for prime-time seafood,” a better description of what you get in Prague. Purveyors in Japan and the West fork over impressive bundles — more than six figures on notable occasions — for just one bluefin tuna. Demand from other markets, shipping costs and time-honored stinginess often limits sushi bars in this city, not to bad fish, but to those a cut below the best.
So at Mash Hana, the tuna cradled in nicely crafted maki emerged from its bout with the arctic conditions of warehouse storage with an unmistakable case of freezer burn: once-healthy colors muddied and delicate flavor drained. Icy spots mar Nagoya’s version of the same, as if the fish had been hastily pulled out of the walk-in and rushed over to the cutting board. To make matters worse, the chef forces these ill-thawed mats into sloppy rolls, some of which burst at the seams.
Delayed resurrection from the freezer also compromises the texture and flavor of Nagoya’s salmon nigiri, transforming the sinuous flesh of a fighter into flabby detritus discarded over the collapsing rubble of rice not sticky enough to cling.
Yet both restaurants still pull regular crowds.
Of the two, Mash Hana wins out — at least in terms of sushi presentation. Its fatty salmon nigiri features pumpkin-hued meat riven by thick furrows of silken white. Each bite eases marbled fibers apart, hinting at the delicacy so prized by aficionados of sashimi-grade fish.
Surf clam is more assertive — firm, luxurious Plasticine with a gentle fishy taste. And flying-fish roe dazzles the eye, shimmering like a good kir royal. The fine-grained eggs burst and instantly veer onto divergent paths. First, the bracing, oceanic plunge you expect hits your palate. It’s followed by something sharper, uplifting and strangely similar to fresh carrots.
This is the allure of Japanese dining, a journey through flavors, textures and colors, with surprises lurking at the whim of nature and the chef.
Nagoya perks up when it comes to cooked items. Marinated beef arrives at the table tender, with husky depth countered by a lighter vegetal broth. Grilled mackerel carries strong natural flavors enhanced by the pan. The tempura is coated sparingly, so as not to overly stress key ingredients, such as peppers or seafood. But the dipping sauce, dank and musty, bullies the plate.
In contrast, Mash Hana serves large, often unwieldy pieces battered comprehensively. But it’s light and crispy, barely fending off the faint remains of used oil. Yam presents a nice, mushy sweetness blending well with malty, tangy soy sauce. The fresh snap of cucumber cups softer, cooked flesh.
The same tempura batter thrives in an inside-out roll of fried shrimp. Sweet, fermented elements are continued by a final spin in sesame seeds, so the experience begins with the familiar expression of shellfish before grounding itself in nutty flavors.
Mash Hana presents dishes with greater confidence. The kitchen dallies and tries to get things right, even when dealing with cheaper product than you find in Tokyo, San Francisco or London. Nagoya sometimes rushes orders to the table, as if they’ve been prepared well in advance.
No matter. Both are little boxes — pretty much all the same in the city’s increasingly crowded Asian food market. A few destinations stand out, for different reasons. Sushi Bar remains the standard. Samurai has skill and a beautiful space. Millhouse’s conveyor belt attracts some interest. Sakura and Gozen provide an experience not too dissimilar to Mash Hana, without the same hit to your wallet.
Meanwhile, a bright and shining outpost of chain sensibilities — Sushi Point — threatens to clamp the lid on Nagoya, Prague’s self-styled “oldest” Japanese restaurant, from just a few meters away.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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