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Getting a head

There's more to cabbage than red and white
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

October 31st, 2007 issue

At first glance, cabbage may not rank among the most interesting of culinary items. But when you are preparing anything from cole slaw to sauerkraut to the red-and-white accompaniments for Czech dishes, the type of cabbage you choose is important.

The simplest way to differentiate cabbage is by color, of course. But the common green and red varieties are rather similar. Both parry strong flavors or fatty meats quite well — hence local preferences. Both work cooked, raw or marinated.
Asian recipes often call for bok choy, a type featuring softer leaves similar in texture to spinach and token bitterness. A decent substitute for bok choy, Napa cabbage has a mild countenance as well. Kale is a robust ingredient in many country dishes. Kohlrabi, on the other hand, offers gentle, sweeter flavors.
Savoy cabbage, as used in this recipe, reels in the stronger taste of common cabbage. It’s gentle-natured — sitting somewhere between Napa and the familiar green-red cabbage on the flavor scale — and well-veined, making savoy perfect for slaw. While the sturdy texture requires slightly longer cooking times, it’s mild enough to support bold ingredients without interfering.
It would be worthwhile to pick up a few different types next time you visit the fruit and vegetable stand. You’ll find that which one you use makes a difference.
Martin Janata is chef at Patriot-X, located at V Celnici 3, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 224 235 158.

ROAST DUCK WITH SAGE AND SAVOY CABBAGE

Ingredients:
600 grams (1.32 pounds) duck breast with skin
6 centiliters good red wine
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
20 leaves sage (fresh)
1 small head of cabbage (about 600 grams)
1 small head of savoy cabbage (about 300 grams)
5 centiliters olive oil
100 grams onion
2 tablespoons caramelized sugar
30 grams ginger
4 small apples (slightly sour)
Vinegar
Salt, pepper, pounded color pepper, caraway seeds according to taste
600 grams small jacket potatoes
Preparation:
Wash the duck breast and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Create a marinade of the red wine, sage, honey and lemon juice.
Cover duck with marinade.
Roast duck until tender, basting occasionally.
Approximately halfway through roasting, add apples to pan and roast together (still basting) until done.
Fry onion until golden and set aside.
Halve the head of cabbage, remove stalk and cut into cubes about 2.5 centimeters square.
Scald cabbage in boiling water for approximately three minutes.
Follow the same process with savoy cabbage.
Spread onion in a casserole. Drain cabbage and add to casserole.
Add sugar, salt and caraway seeds to casserole and heat until it begins to caramelize.
Top with water and stew the cabbage.
When cabbage is ready, add grated ginger and vinegar according to taste, then allow liquid to boil away (lid off).
Serve duck with cabbage and potatoes.
 


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