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Long live Babylon

New restaurant hits the spot in Prague's middle ground
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By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
October 24th, 2007 issue

Babylon

Pod Karlovem 12
Prague 2–New Town
Tel. 222 561 021
Open daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m.

Food **
Service ****
Atmosphere **
Overall ***

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
On the way to Nusle, a moderately-priced gateway to the Middle East.
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FROM THE MENU

Baba ghanouj 70 Kč
Tzatziki 70 Kč
Falafel 70 Kč
Kibbey Babylon 90 Kč
Cous cous 30 Kč
Ades 30 Kč
Kebab Alqush 210 Kč
Tukka 260 Kč
Gyros 140 Kč

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Tzatziki defies the law of gravity.
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Three factors contribute to the longevity of any restaurant.
Well, four if you include location. Otherwise, success is determined by the confluence of food, service and that most nebulous of features, an establishment’s overall “atmosphere.”
Of these, skilled kitchen work may be the least significant. Fastidious service and a comfortable environment will almost always rescue mediocre courses. When guests suffer rude treatment, on the other hand, stunning carbonnade de boeuf, memorable cassoulet or a nice, satisfying creme brulee can rarely muster the strength to pull a restaurant from oblivion.
So when Babylon’s wait staff show interest — apparently genuine — in empathetic chit-chat, you may well forgive their rustic interpretation of gyros. Not that flatbread is an absolute must, but the absence of pita leaves just a plate of chicken pieces and attendant vegetables. It’s not much to look at, although the chopped meat feels right: meaty flavors supported by looming warmth.
When servers smile as you ponder entrée selections or drop by the table to mention an open door (which they will happily close if it bothers you), their attention tends to quell concerns over a “kibbey” — presumably kibbeh — of crumbly ground lamb and washed-out raisins filling dough partially saturated by well-used oil.
For the most part, Babylon’s kitchen performs well enough that service and ambience easily smooth over such moments of doubt.
Kebab of lamb, for example, alternates rich, musty cubes of meat with red onion sweetened by time on the grill. Ground lamb, molded into elongated patties and skewered, draws a full, murky depth from compounded herbs. Both are armed with garlic-laced yogurt and an intriguing tomato sauce. The latter starts with a light, sweet banter before diving headlong into gloomier reaches — a husky, almost malty essence similar to balsamic. Finally, a rolling, searing heat begins welling up.
The spicy sauce draws out sharpness culled from the grill, while yogurt finds herbal ingredients and calls them forward.
Unlike gyros, both arrive topped by flatbread wedges covered in mint and vegetables, as well as a scattering of grilled bell peppers and onions.
There are some welcome curiosities, such as ades. Supposedly a soup of red lentils with chicken, it takes on a vibe similar to those hearty white bean broths served in homes across the northern United States: thick and earthy, tugged one way by pepper, another by tender, mellow white meat.
Four muffin-shaped forms represent falafel, in this case a pulse of chick pea and fava bean, studded with sesame and crisped to a burnished brown. The cake-like texture inside contains strong notes of toast, simple herbs and a swelling sensation of grounded spice — nutmeg, cardamom — which reassert themselves with each bite. It’s a good, fulfilling starter.
The menu refers to falafel as a rissole. Generally, this term is used to describe filled pastry, but why quibble over semantics? In a city seemingly split into two dining classes — ubiquitous cheap pubs and growing number of posh, wallet-thinning destinations — Babylon fits into a much needed space: interesting food at everyday prices,
The tzatziki? Thick and creamy, balancing sour tanginess with a mellow undertone, supplemented by the bright snap of cucumber and bitter swipe of garlic. Even more impressive, Babylon’s version of baba ghanouj carries elusive bitter notes and the soothing presence of tahini in an intensely smoky puree.
Both are served with warmed pita wedges. Good stuff.
While the menu strays into more familiar realms, listing spaghetti Bolognese, tagliatelle alla carbonara, steak (with a promise of rare) and the usual pork cutlets, Babylon’s emphasis on Middle Eastern specialties sets the restaurant apart.
That and its downright pleasant service crew.
None of the empires seated in Babylon managed to survive the ravages of history. Let’s hope for some longevity this time.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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