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Child's Play
Hitting the trail close to home
By
Elisabeth Amante Heys
For The Prague Post
October 10th, 2007 issue
In these waning days of fall, take some family time to explore the little-known Eurobed nature trails around Prague. There are 15 such trails, all with well-marked footpaths and paved cycling or walking trails. Part of the Eurobed Project linking a vast artery of hiking trails, these nature preserves were formed gradually with the support of municipalities, communities and the Environment Ministry. Eurobed sites are larger and more rugged than city parks and rarely offer playground equipment or other amenities. What they do offer is a look at nature close to home. Within the system of Eurobeds, fattened carp will feed from a child’s hands, and water birds’ nests and caves can be explored. Some of the most beautiful settings are in suburban areas where the city meets nature, less than 30 minutes from city center. Like Rome, Prague is built on seven hills, and nothing makes this more evident than a walk through Řeporyje–Hlubočepy. After following the trail from the train depot at Praha Hlubočepy, you wind up at Prokop Lake, the remains of an old quarry. From the lake, at least three of Prague’s hillside communities are within clear view: Jinonice, Barrandov and Stodůlky. The trail is of historic interest: St. Prokop is said to have lived in a nearby cave. This is the saint we have to thank for keeping the devil busy and the banks of the Vltava under control, by hitching Satan to a plow and compelling him to dig a ditch along the river bank. The hermit is so closely linked with the area that it is called Prokopské údolí, or Prokop’s Valley. Children will enjoy exploring the open caves along the way. (Be sure to bring flashlights). To reach Prokopské údolí and Řeporyje, take metro B (the yellow line) to Smíchovské nádraží and then a commuter train one stop to Praha–Hlubočepy. Walk in the direction of the train about 500 meters to find the trailhead. Explore the caves up the bank while in this section of the preserve, then continue on the main paved trail about 7 kilometers to Stodůlky. Return from here by metro or continue on. The trail ahead leads to even more spectacular views over rolling green hillside and apple orchards, and can be walked on a meadow path or bicycled (mostly uphill) on a wide paved road. Automobile traffic is allowed, at a tolerable 20 kilometers per hour.Another family favorite is the Botič Basin walk, offering a mix of experiences along broad, paved and generally untrafficked roads. The trail runs through the remains of a fortified settlement at Hostivařská reservoir, around the Pitkovický stream valley and through the Milíčovský forest. Where flashlights are a must at Prokopské údolí, binoculars are a necessity here to see the waterfowl, which includes tufted duck, common ponchard and egrets. Woodpeckers are abundant and you may even hear the trill of an Old World Warbler.Save your old bread for a trip to Botičé Basin so you can stop to feed the carp at the water’s edge. Children gather here awestruck as the big-lipped fish (some the length and width of two shoeboxes) come to shore, gulping down fist-size lumps of day old chléb. Children gather at the banks to “pet” the carp and wade in ankle-deep to catch them bare-handed. In addition to bags of bread and binoculars, take a blanket with you. Botič Basin offers open meadows where, on a sunny day, a little basking is de rigueur. To get there, take metro C (the red line) to Háje, then bus 213, 260, 170, 165 or 202 to Jižni Město. Cross the street and walk in the direction of the green space, taking any trail that looks appealing.For descriptions and directions to other Eurobed trails, you can request a copy of the Obrazový atlas (Picture Atlas of Tourist Attractions and Educational Trails) from any agency of CzechTourism. The free, 250-page guide, translated into English and German, is an invaluable resource for active families.
Other articles in Tempo (10/10/2007):
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