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The grill of victory

In the battle for Prague's best burger, it's a toss-up

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
September 26th, 2007 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
The so-called Elvis King burger at Ultramarin pulled off a surprising tie for third place in this year's contest.
Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Ready to plate pljeskavice at Mon Ami, consistently one of Prague's best burgers.
SCORES

Out of a possible 35 points:
Fraktal 25
Mon Ami 25
Mozaika 22.5
Ultramarin 22.5
Cowboys 19.5
Hergetova Cihelna 19
Jáma 18
O'Che's 14
Jet Set 12.5
J. J. Murphy's 12.5

The hamburger first achieved notoriety as an on-the-run meal for marauding hordes storming across the steppes of Russia. Somehow during its historic trek from Mongol camps to European frying pans and across the Atlantic into countless roadside diners, it became an American icon.
No other sandwich lugs so much cultural weight around. The after-school hangout, family barbecues, road trips, comic strips, pre-game tailgate parties — the burger is a ubiquitous part of daily life in the States. Yet it’s a cunning creation. Rich and juicy in its most basic form, it can be dressed up with fine accoutrements or stacked to treacherous heights. Some cooks insist on grills loaded with hickory or mesquite, although the burger seems equally content sizzling away in a frying pan.
So in addressing the issue of best burger, it’s important to dismiss any prejudice beforehand. There is no absolutely correct bun, condiment or cooking method — at least, according to the rules of engagement for this competition.
Each burger in this year’s contest was instead judged by a fairly simple system, awarding points for the degree of “doneness,” quality of meat, bun, condiments and side dishes. The patty’s flavor, as well as an overall impression of the sandwich, completed each profile.
With room in the contest for only 10 burgers, this is not a comprehensive guide. Next year the worst of this lot will drop from competition, opening space for kitchens hopefully more worthy.
As for this year’s results:
Two very different burgers drubbed the field: Fraktal’s goat cheese and pistachio version — the winner by a narrow margin one year ago — and Mon Ami’s deceptively simple meat and bun combination.
Behind the front-runners, another two-way battle also ended in a tie, between the popular expat hangout Mozaika and New Town’s stylish Ultramarin.
The remainder all fell into the category of also-rans.
Prague’s professional kitchens are notoriously inconsistent, of course. I’ve heard reports of parched, gritty burgers served up at Ultramarin and brilliant, backyard-style versions from Jáma’s grill — particularly on the gourmet burger days. Arguments erupt over the quality of Fraktal’s burger as well. And, when Mozaika gets everything right, it’s a memorable meal.
The ratings here are based on one visit, with no accounting for such ups and downs.
Next year, the bottom three drop from competition. In their slots? I’ve heard good things about the burger at Downtown Café and, who knows, Hard Rock may be up and running.
We will see.
THE WINNERS (TIE)
Fraktal (Šmeralova 1, Prague 7–Bubeneč). The meat was heated beyond medium, but still retained much of its character. Crispy black char marks burst with pepper, the sting picked up by a prickly sauce. Goat cheese adds tart and creamy sensations while some mellow nuttiness appears in the background. I can’t say the rest is as inspiring: unexceptional bun, pretty fair condiments. The fries, however, were golden, crunchy and fatty.
Mon Ami (Roháčova 20, Prague 3–Žižkov). Pljeskavice, the Balkan favorite made of ground beef and lamb, may not appeal to all burger aficionados. And the presentation is an exercise in minimalism — just meat and bun. But the meat is almost exquisite in flavor, with a soft, earthy depth to each bite. And since lamb caramelizes differently, the taste burnt into the patty has less sweetness and more burnished, acrid gaminess. It’s served in a glutinous, chewy homemade bun.    
SECOND PLACE (TIE)
Mozaika (Nitranská 13, Prague 3–Vinohrady). Long a popular burger, this one is layered with grilled sweet onions, tomatoes, lettuce, mayo and the kitchen sink on a spinach bun. Mozaika’s creation is generous and very pleasing when done right, although the kitchen has had problems with consistency. This time the bun was stale and the meat slightly overcooked. Yet the balance of contrasting and supporting flavors is unique and impressive.
Ultramarin (Ostrovní 32, Prague 1–New Town). On the dry side, and not very fatty; if overcooked, the patty would seize up like baked cement. It was pulled from the heat just in time, however, and dexterous seasoning — nutmeg and cumin, from the taste of it — contributed musty, slightly bitter background notes. A thin bun contained Portobello, grilled sweet onion and mundane cheese. In short, there’s a lot going on.      
THE ALSO-RANS
Cowboys (Nerudova 40, Prague 1–Malá Strana). A strange, compressed, processed texture saved in part by an assertive hand at the grill. Husky in flavor, with belts of pepper in the crust and fresh vegetables set in a dull bun. The waiter actually tried to warn me off the burger. He should have dissed the fries instead.
Hergetova Cihelna (Cihelná 2b, Prague 1–Malá Strana). The same pressed meat texture as its Kampa Group cousin, and less aggressively charred. But there is so much right about the burger: a meaty taste backed by herbs (and too much salt), condiments arranged on the side, including savory-tart pickles. Probably beats Cowboys on other days.
Jáma (V Jámě 7, Prague 1–New Town). Good, fatty beef tortured, on this outing, by excessive cooking. If yanked from the grill sooner, it would be a surprisingly American burger: masculine and hefty, supported by crisp, smoky bacon and the usual array of greenery.
O’Che’s (Liliová 14, Prague 1–Old Town). Overcooked meat, congealed cheese and weatherbeaten red onion, all working to destroy bold charcoal flavor, backed by a bitter haze and hints of sweetness.
Jet Set (V Jámě 6, Prague 1–New Town) Like gray, beefy Spam in color and texture — not a good start. Watery more than juicy, with a hollow flavor that pretty much summarizes the overall effort.
J. J. Murphy’s (Tržiště 4, Prague 1–Malá Strana). A weak (and brief) addition to the list. Routine in just about every way: dry, characterless beef, dull cheese, fries soaked in old cooking oil, spotty service.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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Reader's comments:

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[22:48 27/09/2007] : I had a surprisingly good burger at Bohemia Bagel. I was expecting it to be bad, and it was not bad. Maybe that does not qualify it as one of the best in Prague, but you don't need to avoid it if you have a craving for a traditional American burger.
R Barkand
Praha 6
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