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Lessons in French

Technique is the key to great regional dishes
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

September 19th, 2007 issue

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Rillettes of pork, rabbit or, in this case, duck, are popular as an appetizer.
The ingredients used in French recipes are often quite simple. It’s the technique that matters.
Rillette traditionally consists of meat cooked in lard. Depending on the region, the dish may be prepared with pork, goose, rabbit or poultry. The cooled meat is pounded with fat into a paste, similar to luncheon spreads.
The process — cooking in fat and pounding with fat — infuses the meat with rich, almost caramelized flavors while lending it a smooth, delicate texture. The final, muscular act blends in seasonings and more fat, further softening the mixture and deepening the earthy taste. This delicate, fatty, smooth mouthfeel is the hallmark of perfect rillette.
If you travel to France, try the pork rillette made famous by the people of Tours or Anjou. Rabbit tends to be on the dry side, while goose ends up with an extraordinarily gentle texture.
Always serve rillettes either cold or at room temperature.
Jerome Lorieux is chef at La Provence, located at Štupartská 9, Prague 1–Old Town. Tel. 296 826 155.

DUCK RILLETTES

Ingredients:
4 duck legs
1 kilogram (2.2. pounds) duck fat, at least
Black pepper (freshly ground is best)
Salt
Ground nutmeg
Preparation:
Cook the meat in fat slowly, as you would for confit, then allow to cool.
Discard skin and bones.
Shred the meat and place in a food processor.
Add one tablespoon duck fat, salt and ground nutmeg to taste.
Pulse the processor and add more fat until the meat will hold together.
Season with plenty of pepper, pulsing once more (alternately, you can pound the meat and fat in a bowl).
To serve: Spread on toasted country bread.
To store: Spoon rillettes into ramekins and top with a layer of duck fat. They will keep several weeks in a refrigerator.


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