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Into the drink

Touring Moravian wine country on two wheels and a glass

By Helena Baker
For The Prague Post
September 5th, 2007 issue

Photo courtesy of CZECHTOURISM
Mikulov is just one of Moravia's wine tour distractions that don't involve local vino.
There are 10 demarcated cyclotrails through Moravia. The longest of this network goes by a rather appealing name: the Moravian wine route.
This intriguing trail runs a total of 290 kilometers (180 miles) across the varied landscape of southwest Moravia, beginning in Znojmo on the Austrian border, then traversing the urban centers of Mikulov, Hustopeče, Velké Pavlovice, Mutěnice and Bzenec before ending up in the northernmost wine outpost, Uherské Hradiště.  
Along the way, riders pass through all the wine subregions of Moravia. But this particular route is no Sunday outing. Completing the trip requires several days, during which you are rewarded with the landscape at its finest, rich in history and lively tradition. The trail introduces hardy travelers to 70 wine villages, dozens of protected natural sites and many of the region’s most important historical and architectural landmarks.
Fortunately, there are options, as this trail connects with all the other principal wine trails, which are shorter in length and cover specific areas. The entire network is administered by Greenways, part of the Czech Environmental Partnership Foundation. As soon as you hit on the wine-path symbol — the silhouette of a cellar — you know you are on the right track. Signposts along all trails are distinguished by this logo, although each trail has its own color code. The Moravian wine route, for instance, uses red. Directions, points of interest and services available alongside the trails are indicated by boards with pictograms.
The most significant points of interest are wine villages with their cellar colonies and streets lined with family wine cellars, where you can sample local vintages. Beware, though — it is far easier to start a tasting than to end one.  
Wine trails vary greatly in length. For instance, the Znojmo trail that connects 55 individual wine villages covers 160 kilomters, while a route through the Bzenec subregion is a mere 26  (though that does not mean it is the softest option). The majority lead along quiet roadways, through meadows or wooded tracks, so normally an ordinary bicycle (or even going on foot) will suffice. The Uherské Hradiště route, featuring a mildly undulating road and dedicated cycleway, is suitable for a daylong family outing. But some, such as the Kyjov circuit, cross the hilly contours around the outskirts of the Ždánický forest, marked by steep gradients and protracted downhill runs.
So it’s advisable to study the map packs when planning your trip. In each you will find information about the length of a particular route, its elevation profile and the state of the road surface. Map packs are available in English from Národní Vinařské Centrum in Valtice. For further information, check
www.vinarske.stezky.cz.
Winery of the month:  
František Polehňa — Blatnice pod svatým Antonínkem
Out at the very edges of the country, on the eastern border with Slovakia, sits the large wine village of Blatnice pod Svatým Antonínkem, scene of a famous annual pilgrimage. It is also home to a very large number of good winemaking enterprises. Foremost among these is the family winery of František Polehňa and his son Jan. Together they farm 8 hectares (20 acres) on the southern slopes of the gravelly foothills of the White Carpathian Mountains. Groups of up to 15 people can be accommodated in the upstairs salon, with made-to-measure tastings from the wide range available from the cellar. It’s well worth a trip, as Polehňa is not only a fastidious winemaker but a true gentleman. Prior appointment is necessary. For more information, check
www.vin-polehna.zde.cz.
Wines of the month
Local white: Pinot Blanc, 2005 late harvest
Producer: Luboš Bílik, Prague–Troja–Salabka
Region: Czech wine region
Pale straw to the eye, with an elegant fruity nose reminiscent of ripe pears and exotic undertones such as pineapple and vanilla. All of this carries through on the palate. The flavor is also well-balanced, buttery with a lengthy finale. One of the best Czech samples I’ve tasted in a long time, this wine comes from the Salabka vineyard near Prague Zoo. A real find!  (Available for 290 Kč/$14.30 at Wine Shop, Míšenská 8, Prague 1–Malá Strana)    
Foreign red: Chateau Bas d’Aumelas L’Égérie 2005, Coteaux du Languedoc, Gres de Montpellier
Producer: Jean-Philippe et Geoffroy d’Albenas, Aumelas, France  
This wine comes from a small winery near Montpellier in southwest France, and is the equivalent of a reserve wine from single vineyard grapes. It has a lovely crimson appearance, deep and dense, and opens out with youthful aromas of forest fruit laced by wild herbs, with a hint of licorice. The meaty palate is nicely rounded with firm tannins and a balancing acidity. (350 Kč)    
September Events Diary
It’s vinobraní time once again. Weekend celebrations of the grape harvest take place in a number of settings around the country. Among the most famous locally is the one on the chateau grounds of Troja in Prague 8. Festivities take place Sept. 15 and 16, starting at 9 a.m. In Moravia, perhaps the most famous is the Znojmo historical wine festival, which runs Sept. 14 and 15 this year. Traditionally, both venues offer plenty of stands serving a variety of wines, as well as the still-fermenting burčák. Music, refreshments and other attractions are also promised. For more information on these events, check www.vinoteka-troja.cz and  www.znojmocity.cz.
Helena Baker’s wine column appears the first Wednesday of each month. She can be reached at features@praguepost.com.

Helena Baker can be reached at features@praguepost.com


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