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Four Seasons or one?

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
September 5th, 2007 issue

It’s not such a terrible thing when parties, one large and one small, compete for the few weeknight hours you have to spare.

Simply a matter of weighing interests, really — except so many forces throw pros and cons your direction, it’s only natural to waver before making a final decision. And even then you’re apt to be a bit restless.
A couple dozen years ago or so, the St. Louis Post-Dispatch reported that a titter of excitement running through the crowd interrupted a performance at the city’s Muni Opera. Seems many tuxed-out ticket holders had their attention — and Sony Walkmans — tuned to the World Series finale, also scheduled for that evening.
Now, I’m a fan of the more refined vices: single malt scotch, vintage port, foie gras, Copper River salmon and the like. But it’s difficult to resist an evening at the stadium.
Unfortunately, one of those moments of decision came recently. I was forced to choose between the promise of a big game packed with drama and delirium, or an intimate gathering in a refined setting.
The Four Seasons, to be exact.
Naturally, I bailed on a rare invitation to dine at the hotel in favor of an evening with Slavia Praha fans numbering in the tens of thousands, pounding up and down at the prospect of an historic win over Amsterdam’s Ajax, intoxicated only (for the most part) with excitement.
For you see, soccer stadiums in Prague and elsewhere across the Continent serve only nonalcoholic brew at their games (inside the stadium) in an effort to dull hooliganism. It’s an ingenious plan, really, for the lack of spirit in the cup doesn’t curb consumption.
It does, however, feel just as weighty as the real thing after four or five. With a clear head and sluggish body, would-be brawlers focus their attention on the game instead of opposing fans, or so goes the theory.
Mind you, it seems to work. Well, that and the foresight of conscientious event-coordinator types, who created a buffer zone on each side of visiting Ajax supporters. Oh, a stunning victory by the home squad, sending them to group play in the Champions League for the first time, may have helped stem violent uprisings, as well.
The only problem, as one bloated fan pointed out, is that nagging sense of regret the next morning when you realize just what transpired the night before.
It’s difficult to live down such fits of responsible behavior.
That might explain all the singing — as well as the pre- and post-game binge drinking. One must make up for those few lost hours.
Meanwhile, back at the hotel, festivities began with several cocktails out on the terrace, followed by several rounds of fine wine.
While some famished fanatics in my midst at the game gnawed on dripping lengths of klobása, the folks who attended the restaurant fete enjoyed tasting courses of authentic Tuscan favorites.
The Four Seasons’ event celebrated years of hard work by outgoing chef Vito Mollica — once labeled “too good” for Prague by a Czech journalist — and welcomed his replacement, Florentine Andrea Accordi. Hotel staff ushered a few select guests into the kitchen, of all places, where they could dine and watch line cooks go through their paces.
So I traded an evening of fine food, good wine, stiff cocktails and pleasant conversation for barley water, greasy sausages, noise and soccer.
Not a bad deal, all in all. Especially when, I’m told, both chefs and many attendees admitted to a twinge or two of jealousy over my being at the game.
And they probably kept up with the score somehow.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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