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A moveable feast

Food fest goes public to highlight Prague's culinary diversity

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
September 5th, 2007 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
Maurer's previous food fests, like this 2006 version held near Prague Castle, were invitation-only affairs.
Prague Food Festival

When: Sept. 7–9, noon–10 p.m. each day
Where: Museum Kampa (U Sovových mlýnů 2, Prague 1–Malá Strana)
Tickets: 350 Kč, available through Ticketpro and online at
www.praguefoodfestival.com

For the past decade, Pavel Maurer hosted one of Prague’s premier culinary events, an annual celebration of the city’s best restaurants and chefs, for invited guests only.
But the publisher of Grand Restaurant, a Zagat-like guide rating establishments across the country, can pinpoint the moment he first realized a public food festival in Prague could work. The thought struck just a few months ago, as he stood amid booths and milling crowds at Taste Edinburgh in Scotland.
“It was 11 degrees and raining, and it was in a field on the edge of the city,” he recalls. “And the first evening, they drew 5,000 people.”
Beginning at noon this Friday, the first Prague Food Festival kicks off at Museum Kampa, a venue Maurer selected to “show off” the city — decidedly more attractive (and convenient) than a damp meadow outside Edinburgh.
The festival features a total of 30 different restaurants serving appetizers and entrees, although only 12 will participate each day. Most are in Prague, including Essensia, V Zátiší, Bellevue, Alcron, La Provence, Sushi Bar and La Degustation. Pilsner Urquell invited two pubs — Na Spilce and Na Parkáně — from its hometown of Plzeň, west Bohemia, to cook beer-friendly favorites. And Friday, the highly regarded Domov, a Liberec favorite, makes its debut in the capital. In addition, there will be stands sponsored by Mattoni and Bohemia Sekt, live entertainment, educational programs and even cheese tastings presented by U Závoje.
Festival organizers have set up a children’s corner to relieve parents. They also invited top fashion designers for a gastronomy-themed runway show. As for the food, participating restaurants are planning a global experience: Thai fish cakes, coq au vin, smoked salmon with lentil salad, wiener schnitzel, Pashki cheese and more.
“I remember a time when there were only three foreign restaurants [in Prague],” Maurer says,  noting that even party officials had to wait two months for a seat at the Chinese place. “Now, in my book we list 35 different cuisines.”
Aside from the pubs doling out specialties made with Pilsner Urquell, those invited to participate in this year’s event were chosen from Grand Restaurant’s consensus top 50. The guide polls just over 350 foodies living in the Czech Republic, asking them to assess the food, service and décor of select establishments.
Because the event is limited to museum grounds, only 30 restaurants made the cut.
For the 350 Kč ($17) entry fee, guests will receive vouchers worth 250 Kč to spend exploring, with additional vouchers available inside. Maurer put no limitations on menus, other than requiring participating restaurants to keep food costs within set bounds.
“It will be a good opportunity for many people to taste items from different restaurants at a favorable price,” says Jiří Štift, chef at Alcron in the Radisson Hotel.
Chefs are expecting much more than a weekend of hard work in temporary kitchens. “I think it’s a much-needed project that should help put Prague on the map as a food city,” says Ari Munander, chef at Mandarin Oriental’s Essensia. “It’s also a good way to get to know the other restaurants.”
For Maurer, Prague Food Festival gives curious foodies a chance to sample recipes from establishments they’ve never tried and meet cooks they’ve heard so much about. “It’s a way of educating,” he says. “It’s like wine — you can read a lot about it, but if you want to understand, you must try.” At least 3,000 people are expected to wander the grounds each day, depending on the weather. Maurer hopes the event catches on and gains some permanence — a Prague Spring for gourmands, held in the same location on the same weekend every year.
Edinburgh’s event succeeds, “and it’s in a field, not an interesting setting,” he continues. “I decided to create something that’s not only about food, but the art and architecture of Prague.”
This first edition of the festival coincides with the museum’s Andy Warhol exhibit, which, according to Maurer, only adds to the intrigue. A portion of the proceeds go toward supporting museum operations through the Jan and Meda Mládek Foundation.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (5/09/2007):

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