The Prague Post Online: Night & Day: Gardens of pleasure

July 7th, 2008

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Gardens of pleasure

To escape the tourist crowds, head for the hills

August 29th, 2007 issue

COURTESY PHOTO

Young and old alike will find plenty of room to play in Prague's botanical gardens. enlarge

COURTESY PHOTO

Amid the green, colorful flora. enlarge

Prague Botanical Garden Troja

Nádvorní 134, Prague 7
Open: 97 daily through September, Fata Morgana closed on Tuesdays
For more information, check www.botanicka.cz

Botanic Garden New Town

Na Slupi 16, Prague 2
Open: 105 daily through October
For more information, check www.travel.cz/guide/311/index_en.html

By Stephanie Linka

For the Post

If you’re looking to escape the city heat and tourist crowds, there’s still time to enjoy a pleasant summer afternoon in Prague’s botanical gardens. One is on the south end of New Town, and the other, more popular one is in Troja. While the former is more historically impressive, the latter can really take one by surprise with its beauty.

The botanical garden in New Town was Prague’s first, founded as a university garden by Charles IV in the 14th century. Today the garden, although somewhat small, shows a large variety of exhibitions. These special showings are always held in the beautiful greenhouses dating to 1938. At the moment there are tropical flora, tropical fish and cactuses on display.

The tropical exhibition features plenty of greenery but not many of the brightly colored flowers commonly associated with the tropics. Amid the various shrubs and trees, however, there is a small but beautiful orchid exhibition. Unfortunately, the tropical fish are as disappointing as the flora: two small aquariums with some familiar breeds like clown fish, and a pond in the middle of the greenhouse with some larger, less exotic fish.

While the tropical exhibition is not terribly impressive, the cactus exhibition (also in the greenhouses) is definitely worth seeing. Not only are there cactuses commonly cultivated for garden design, such as the Echinocactus grusonii, but also exotic varieties like Prickly Pear and beautiful Organ Pipe.

The outdoor gardens are more popular, not only because they’re free, but because they manage to show a beautiful collection of flowers despite the climate and space limitations. While meandering through the small, winding paths up the hillside that the garden is located on, you will find a small selection of roses, followed by a collection of lilies as well as some more indigenous shrubbery, trees and flowers. Nestled within the different layers of the gardens is one especially beautiful area from which you can look down onto the gardens below. The garden boasts many flowers that bloom for only one day during the summer, and a huge lily that is said to be able to hold a small child on its leaves.

The Prague Botanical Garden in Troja is not only much larger, but a more successful embodiment of a classic botanical garden. Immediately upon entering, you are greeted by the “Welcome Exhibit” — an exquisite display of vibrant flora that leads to a path into a sculpture garden currently featuring beautifully expressive works from Zimbabwe.

Following the main path through the garden, you eventually enter the Japanese Garden through an almost hidden bamboo gate. This garden is said to be the biggest attraction at the Prague Botanical Garden, and it is immediately clear why. The garden was designed to emphasize the beauty in the deciduous trees and shrubbery while encompassing the four seasons. Since the garden is on a hill, the upper end is envisioned as a mountain from which a stream flows and, via a waterfall, eventually collects in a pond filled with koi fish, making for a beautiful range of terrain.

While the Japanese Garden may be the most popular exhibition, the Mediterranean Garden and the vineyards are equally enjoyable. A small exit from the Japanese Garden leads to a steep downhill path that wraps around the Mediterranean Garden, in which the landscaping as well as the flora perfectly mimics Mediterranean terrain. In true Mediterranean fashion, the vineyard encircles this garden, and you find yourself in a winery where you can taste wine made from the surrounding grapes while enjoying a fantastic view overlooking Troja Chateau, with its intricate hedge garden.

The Prague Botanical Garden is also famed for its Fata Morgana, a greenhouse with an S-shaped ground plan. The current exhibition is described as “a tour around the world through the tropics,” which proved to be an apt title. The greenhouse is divided into three different climates: an arid section in which vegetation from Australia to Africa is on display; a rainforest with tropical flora and fish (this time, genuinely impressive); and a mountainous climate that features flora that grow in the Andes mountains as well as alpine regions in Asia and South Africa.

While neither of the gardens is very English-friendly, language is no barrier to enjoying the sights. In fact, it’s almost a relief not to hear the monotonous drone of heavily accented English that immediately indicates a major tourist attraction. Grab yourself a sunny spot and enjoy the serenity.

Stephanie Linka can be reached at features@praguepost.com

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