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Far, far East

Hidden away in Smíchov, some pretty good Japanese fare
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By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
August 29th, 2007 issue

Gozen

Mozartova 10
Prague 5–Smíchov
Tel. 257 326 805
Open Mon.–Sat. noon–3 p.m., 6 p.m.–11 p.m

Food **
Service ***
Atmosphere **
Overall ***

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Proper technique and alternating textures are key in Gozen's kitchen.
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Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
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FROM THE MENU

Sushi selection (six nigiri, six maki) 540 Kč
Sushi selection (eight nigiri, eight maki) 760 Kč
Delux Gozen (sushi, tempura, miso, more)
980 Kč
Krušovice 25 Kč

Gozen lives on the wrong side of the tracks.
Technically, it sits behind the tangle of concrete and asphalt that spills out of the Strahov Tunnel inland from Nový Smíchov. Judging by the lack of foot traffic, the drab patch works as both a literal and figurative barrier between the crowds milling around Anděl and Gozen’s doors.
But the inclement corner the new Japanese place occupies offers one not-so-obvious advantage: cult appeal.
Open for barely a month, the restaurant already draws an in-the-know clientele, lured presumably by the novelty, and by dishes prepared without Western vanity — meaning no cunning fusion or clumsily massive rolls. Maki are constructed in the old-school manner, dimples poked in the rice and filled with fish or vegetables. Each piece of nigiri sandwiches a thin spread of horseradish between ingredients. It’s just enough to send a familiar rush of heat across the tongue, but not to douse the faint tingle of vinegar used with sushi rice.
The rice itself sticks together with great tenacity, yet grains hold onto their individual character. Construction of maki is tight and the seaweed wrapper yields a grassy, nutty flavor.
Perfect.
But access to top-quality catch remains a problem in this country. On one visit, raw tuna melts on the tongue. Another time, the deep-magenta flesh is chewy and a little tough. Salmon on two occasions seemed timid, almost unidentifiable, although delicate in texture. Yellowtail, on the other hand, is firm and slightly sweet with well-defined fibers. Nigiri of smoked eel presents a robust flavor reminiscent of blazing hearths in wintertime, followed by the intriguing natural sweetness of seafood.  
Intricacy extends beyond the plate in a traditional Japanese meal. The emphasis is on technique and appearance, an array of varying textures (smooth, watery, crunchy), different cooking styles and a see-saw romp between spicy and bland tastes.
So Gozen serves dense miso in which muddy swaths of soy swirl, the broth lashed by sharp fermented notes toned down by more nori. Kamaboko is a chilled fish loaf — something cold to counter the soup. To cleanse the palate, there’s a little dish of tsukemono. These lightly marinated vegetable slices kick off with prickly bites that fall quickly to earth, finishing in a whisper of bitterness. Blandness comes in the form of chawanmushi, in this case one whole prawn steamed in a container of fluffy egg custard.
More colorful presentations range from raw clam with a bright red foot, fishy taste and taut texture to elaborate rolls splattering bright, fresh hues on beds of white rice. One of the rolls layers the vegetal snap of red bell pepper over the naturally sweet flavor of shrimp. The kitchen’s crispy tempura leaves a thin, oily residue on the tongue. But the batter surrounds expressive vegetables and clean seafood. It’s served with the requisite sauce, lightly sweetened for a sugary edge.
Tempura was introduced to the Japanese culinary canon by Portuguese sailors in the seafaring age. The restaurant’s menu includes other foreign imports that have since become staples — stuffed dumplings from the mainland, for instance, and a few inside-out rolls. It also lists home-style chirashi, or fish and vegetables scattered over sushi rice.
Gozen feels less contrived than most establishments of the genre. There’s no real sushi bar, just a small case up front. The guys wielding knives (both Japanese) don’t put on a show. If they bring in a special catch, such as good bluefin tuna, management (also Japanese) simply photocopies a few menu handouts.
Oh, and wait staff prefer speaking English.
Aficionados of raw fish know the pitfalls of sushi in Prague. But this place offers so much more.
It’s worth a trek to the other side.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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