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Small fry

By any name, shrimp are versatile and flavorful
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August 22nd, 2007 issue

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Shrimp go well with just about everything, including simple pasta dishes.
As the Bubba character in Forrest Gump noted, shrimp recipes come in many guises. Cooks can do just about anything to the diminutive shellfish, from boiling to frying them in a wok.
But restaurants and recipe books often confuse matters by listing prawns, langoustines and tiger prawns in place of shrimp.
Technically, prawns are a relative of the lobster family. Although similar to shrimp in size and appearance, they also have two small front claws. Some people refer to them as Dublin prawns. In France, they become langoustines. Italians call these creatures scampi — which further confuses North Americans who consider scampi to be shrimp cooked in garlic and butter.
Practically, however, the difference is one of vernacular. To Americans, large shrimp end up in the prawn category. Some people distinguish between freshwater catches (prawns) and saltwater (shrimp). The British and many Europeans simply call all shrimp “prawns,” labeling the clawed variety as Dublin prawns, and larger shrimp tiger prawns.
The only thing passionate cooks agree on, it seems, is that the shellfish can be used in just about any recipe, hot or cold — such as chef Martin Opršal’s pasta dish.
Whatever you call them, cook shrimp only to the point where the flesh turns opaque, cutting one or two in half just to be certain. Then remove them from the pan to cool and stall the heating process.
It is easy to overcook shrimp, so be careful. Too much heat can produce tough meat and off-flavors.
Stefano De Michielis is chef for Box Block restaurant in the Carlo IV Hotel, located at Senovážné nám. 13, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 224 593 111

SPAGHETTI BUZZARA

Ingredients:
(Serves four)
1 pound (0.5 kilogram) dried spaghetti ➤ 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (more to taste)
1.5 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
3 tablespoons bottled capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped if large
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons lobster bisque

3 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped

One-half teaspoon salt
One-half teaspoon freshly ground pepper
8 cherry tomatoes sliced in half
Preparation:
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to boil over high heat.
Add the spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until barely tender.
While the pasta cooks, heat two tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.
Add the shrimp and cook one minute.
Add the capers, cherry tomatoes and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally until the shrimps turn pink and firm—two or three minutes.
Stir in the lobster bisque and parsley, then season with salt and pepper.
Drain the spaghetti and return to the warmed pot.
Add the shrimp and its sauce and toss, stirring in the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, if you wish.
Transfer to a large, warmed bowl and serve immediately.


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