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The left bank

Cheap eats in Malá Strana and news from other parts

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
July 11th, 2007 issue

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
All this for the low, low price of ... entrecote beef with trimmings at Cafe de Paris.
Don’t confuse Café de Paris with Café de Paris.
One is an Old Town institution, a refined space in the Hotel Paris; the other, a simple room spilling out onto the sidewalks of Maltézské náměstí.
But the latter, while supporting a limited menu, offers perhaps the best dinner deal in Prague. For a mere 249 Kč, you receive slices of entrecote beef in sauce. The meat is tender and kept warm on a tray over flickering candles. There’s enough for a decent meal ... and more. On another heated tray, there’s a big plate of pomme frites — but that’s not all. The kitchen also sends out a salad with actual greens and an interesting dressing, along with a serving of bread.
Yes, service can be disjointed. And if you’re forced to sit indoors, elbow room might be scarce. Still, it’s worth a visit to Malá Strana when funds are low.
Just don’t end up in the wrong place.
The sounds of dinner
For those who prefer a setting with a little more personality than muzak or Czech radio come dinnertime, the folks at Pálffy Palác are offering Sunday Suites, a series of musical evenings featuring performers from all genres. “I think that a concert accompanied by an excellent meal has been missing in Prague,” explains Roman Řezníček, owner of the restaurant. “My intention is to support young, talented musicians.” Meaning no Karel Gott, I guess. Events are scheduled for the third Sunday of each month. Call 257 530 522 for more information.
Restaurant Piano Nobile, part of Chateau Mcely, now offers a la carte dining, breaking from its daily menu routine. Chef Libor Krusinsky promises creative takes on recipes familiar to those aristocrats who once owned the chateau and its surroundings.
That’s a wrap
Kitchen staff slaving away for those fancy hotels have it rough: enough credit to purchase the best ingredients and — get this — a few days off now and then. The Radisson is taking the easy life to extremes, shutting down its highly regarded Alcron restaurant for the summer, specifically July 16 through Aug. 12. No matter; the Czech press reports Burger King is on the way to pick up the slack.
After Corinthia Towers executive chef Martin Jiskra high-tailed it to England, the hotel found a willing replacement in Roman Dolejš. The 31-year-old Czech native was serving as chef de cuisine for the Marriott Beach Resort, Grand Cayman and ... and ... never mind, that can’t be right.
Coming soon
Jot this down somewhere handy: The Prague Food Festival, Sept. 79 in and around the Kampa Museum. Chefs from such notable establishments as Ambiente, Square, La Provence, Alcron (assuming the kitchen staff has returned from their holiday), Sushi Bar, Pálffy Palác, Lví dvůr, the Aria Hotel and others will show off their wares. Look for more details in this space at a later date.
Final (slurred) words
Last month, Mladá fronta Dnes decided to test the food at 10 hospitals, gathering for this momentous excursion a panel of expert judges, including Health Minister Tomáš Julínek. The findings? Most dishes were too salty, too greasy and lacked vegetables. Hmmm ... you get the feeling the guys just popped round to the local pub.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


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