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The garden path

Drinking outdoors and one or two other sure signs of summer

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
June 27th, 2007 issue

JOHN GILCHRIST/The Prague Post
Drinking in the view: People gather for a little sun in Letná Park.
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Others share tables in the shade at Riegrovy sady.
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Summer means a couple of things. First, there’s the weekly mass exodus from the city as families pile into their Škodas and jam the roadways in their rush to enjoy country living for a couple days.
Make that two and a half — most Czechs disappear at lunchtime Friday.
For those bound to the city by the lack of motorized transport (or work), the urban equivalent beckons: beer gardens.
Of course, it’s not that difficult to find outdoor oases in Prague. From the costly tourist perches in Old Town Square to the cool space set in the ruins behind U Pinkasů, or the spacious patio at Zvonařka overlooking the vast expanse of Prague 4, or Olympos’ popular enclosure, almost every dining or drinking establishment sets a few tables outside.
Beer gardens are less structured, more informal. There’s a sense of freedom and community at shared picnic benches under the trees. In short, they appeal to the very spirit of summer.
Here’s a brief look at Prague’s better alcoholic pastures:
Letná Park. Letná Park is an expanse of greenery overlooking the river between Hradčany and Holešovice that once served as home to communist-era parades and the world’s largest statue of Uncle Joe. There’s plenty of shade (tables sit in a grove), wonderful vantage points and you can stroll the grounds, suds in hand. It’s a popular draw for those who can tolerate beer in plastic cups. Downsides include sloshing your beverage while dodging in-line skaters and the usual organic matter.
Riegrovy sady. The park brings folks from Prague 2 and 3 together, and they all congregate in the enclosed beer garden. Large and often crowded, it has a stage for occasional live music and a very large screen to broadcast the big game (or whatever’s on MTV at the moment). Because the space is fenced off, beer is served in proper glasses. Downsides: MTV and, technically, you’re not supposed to wander around with your beer. On the upside, there’s less organic matter to worry about.
Parukářka. Above Olšanské náměstí, the park and small beer garden overlook the less eccentric parts of Žižkov, with fantastic views of Old Town’s orange rooftops beyond. You pay a deposit for the glass, but you can then scope out the grounds at will. There are a few seats in the cramped pub, if you wish. Not much of an outdoor seating area — it’s more of a place to grab a beer and loll in the grass. Downsides: The beer shed doesn’t inspire confidence, but that’s a minor detail. Otherwise, the usual dog residue.
Kaštan. A small place wedged between two busy streets — Patočkova and Bělohorská — in Prague 6 near Břevnov Monastery. Not much of a view, but worth a visit if you happen to be out that way.
Indoor activities
The spacious sports bar owned by Jaromír Jágr (known as Jágr’s, naturally), shut down not long ago. Now comes word that the new owners plan to refurbish the twin-tiered place, turning it into a “proper” Irish pub. Guess that means no smoking. Other foreign-style drinking holes clustered in the area include Three Lions (British), Jáma (American) and Rocky O’Reillys (ostensibly Irish). Sooner or later, some entrepreneur will open a Czech pub.
The surprising (for two reasons: in Prague 6 and quite good) fusion restaurant Monsoon hosts a wine tasting Friday, June 29, starting at 8 p.m. The menu includes three wines with each course, so bring a responsible adult along. Call 222 959 999 for details.
Lounge around, sip Belgian ales and listen to live music at Auberge de Provence’s “Ball Populaire” June 30. The restaurant is located just outside Prague 6 in the village of Tuchoměřice. Call 220 951 083 for more information.
Vltava restaurant in the President Hotel has a new chef, Milan Pešek.
Seasons change
Another critical component of summer (besides beer and getting out of town): vegetables. Square on Malostranské náměstí recently introduced a vegetarian menu including starters, soups and main courses. The first iteration lists Jerusalem artichoke flan with Parmesan fondue and morel sauce (225 Kč/$10.50 for a starter) and pumpkin ravioli with shallots (295 Kč, main), among other items.
La Provence in Old Town features tiger prawns in many guises (pasta, salads, stir fry, etc.) from now until chef Jerome Lorieux tires of the critters.
Final (slurred) words
Service at Bar 69 in New Town was never what you would consider prompt. Now, with cheaper and friendlier competition across the street — Pivní Pohoda — the staff has turned downright surly, especially when patrons of Pivní Pohoda, which rarely sells cigarettes, duck in to buy a pack. On one recent evening, a Bar 69 bartender stood in front of a fully stocked shelf insisting that the joint ran out of smokes sometime earlier.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (27/06/2007):

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