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September 7th, 2008
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Off the beaten path

Get off the tourist trail and on your way to Prague's most unique hangouts

By Kathleen Kralowec
For The Prague Post
June 27th, 2007 issue

During a first visit to Prague, people find themselves surprised by several things — the cheapness of the beer, the beauty of the city and the sheer mass of tourists crowding into this relatively small Central European city.

KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
Cross Club
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KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
Cross Club
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But here’s a secret: There’s a much bigger Prague out there, if you are willing to leave behind Old Town Square and Charles Bridge.
So, when you tire of the crowds, scams and endless souvenir stands of the city center, venture off the beaten path and check out the local haunts.
U vystřelenýho voka
U Božích Bojovníků 3
The Shot-Out Eye, as its name translates from the Czech, has a local reputation for a rough edge and slightly unsavory clients. However, those who venture out to this icon of the Žižkov drinking scene will find themselves pleasantly surprised by the unique and diverse environment, brazen but congenial attitude and off-beat
cultural elements of this cozy dive. Deeply ingrained in its
community, this restaurant-bar-teahouse still resonates with the working-class roots of the neighborhood, and bites back with a rebelliously artistic streak. This eccentric’s hideout crouches at the bottom of the hill and is deeply active in its community, serving as the traditional location of the most important luncheon of the annual Masopust carnival. Irreverent and laid back, this place adds new meaning to the bohemian lifestyle.
Blind Eye
Vlkova 26
This Žižkov hotspot is among the most beloved gathering places of local hipsters as well as casual-faire kids in search of a chill and open-minded drinking joint.
KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
Blind Eye
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A common stop in a Prague 3 pub hop, Czechs and expats alike while away many late hours within this comfy drinking spot, furnished with a miscellaneous assortment of chairs, tables and other décor, as diverse and colorful as the international patronage. This vibrant pub stays open late, offers both laid-back lounge and dancing spaces, and generally goes with the flow of its spontaneous and carefree young clientele. Take a look at the list of drink specials for a laugh, you'll notice they offer “sex with the bartender,” and other cheekily named beverages that are much too colorful to name here.
Taky Tiki
Cimburkova 22
For all of you hard-core collectors of Easter-Island memorabilia and Hawaiian accessories, this funky Technicolor bar will be a return to paradise. While the place serves up plenty of beer, here’s where you can also refresh your beer-saturated taste buds with the fresh flavors of such exotic favorites as pina colada, purple poison and the mysterious “Magoo.”
KURT VINION/THE PRAGUE POST
Taky Tiki
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This dreamy oasis is great for winding down at the end of a long night’s party or winding up before the pub-hopping begins. The small and intimate space exudes an easy-going and relaxed attitude, which management describes as “a comfortable lounge room for the public to drink in.” Whether you’re craving the old staples of tropical cocktails, or just in the mood for a few beers in a cozy place, you can’t go wrong in this hip and friendly community bar.
Café Bar O2
Karlovo náměstí (at the corner of Ječná)
You could walk by this small corner pub without noticing it, but this tight and cozy bar and café is one of the most unique of its kind in Prague. Located in a discreet and easily overlooked boxlike building on the corner of Karlovo náměstí square, this pub hosts disc jockeys three nights a week, spinning techno to the taste of its free-wheeling and experiment-loving customers. Super intimate, yet surprisingly roomy inside, the local eccentrics are known to spend whole afternoons here, taking breaks on the rooftop patio when they’re in the mood for a breath of fresh air.
Újezd
Újezd 18
Located on the fringe of tourist territory, this ultra-local hangout is the watering hole for all kinds of local characters, and its decorative style is just about as unique as its clientele. Marked outside by a pair of striking wrought-iron tulips, the unique
ironwork continues to wind its way throughout the space within, and is accompanied by a host of comic-book style artwork, black and white photography, and other odd assorted decorations of all descriptions. The place offers several levels of hangout space and continues down to one of Prague’s classic, murky former wine-cellars, now used for games of table football and a bar. Despite its hard-nosed attitude, you'll find the woodwork,
furniture and details down to the railing in this place have been done with a particular artistic flair, making this place an artsy and comfortable place to chill out late into the night.
Planet Žižkov
Tachovské nám. 1
Wise-cracking waiters, gritty locals, multilingual graffiti and apocalyptic décor — welcome to Planet Žižkov. Embedded deep in the belly of Prague’s rebel district, this locals’ joint is the ultimate time killer. You’ll notice that while the place exudes a laid-back atmosphere, there’s still that seediness that gives Žižkov its juice, keeping the place interesting and keeping you just a little bit on your toes. A cosmopolitan place in its own right, here they play mega-retro American music videos on a loop, interrupted by occasional exercise clips and football matches. Despite its authentic grit, the place is ideal for getting into long conversations with pals, guzzling beer and eventually striking up a conversation with the Belarusian, Estonian or Chilean at the table across from yours who also managed to land on Planet Žižkov.
Cross Club
Plynární 23
They say every installation artist who visits Prague should stop by this club at least once. That could probably be said for auto mechanics, robot designers and anyone planning on building a spaceship in the near future as well, as the place is decorated on every floor with the re-used parts of cars, re-arranged into new and strange configurations and mechanized. The place gives you the impression that you are walking through a Klingon vessel that was assembled in someone’s garage, but after a few drinks you feel more like you're surrounded by a humming and blinking wonderland. On nights when the club is pumping, quite appropriately, you might start to feel like part of the overall
cyborganic sculpture. As you gradually grow familiar with the maze of floors, hallways and strange corridors, you will no doubt find yourself charmed by this strange recycled palace, located near the Holešovice metro station.
Hloupý Honza
Školská 12
Sweet as pie but street-smart enough to keep from being a grannies-only gathering point, Stupid John’s, as its name means in English, is not so stupid after all, drawing in locals from all walks of life to join the bustling drinking scene day and night. While the ubiquitous picnic tablecloths and delicate antiques bespeak a simpler time, don’t be fooled; this place is headquarters for many a thirsty local and his boisterous gang of drinking buddies. Close to the action but sneakily placed outside of the tourist radar, this place offers a kindly environment with plenty of soul, and teems with local life and jolly patrons. At heart, the atmosphere glows pleasantly with nostalgia for the rural Czech drinking culture, and completes the picture with a menu of hearty Czech food.
Hajnovka
Italská 21
Located off one of the most colorful and active streets in the city, the jolly Hajnovka bar and restaurant takes pride in its Old World look and feel, combining a touch of country quaintness with the irreverent spirit of traditional beer halls. Firmly grounded in the hip Vinohrady district as a place to get away from it all and cool down after work, the place is a beloved meeting point for Vinohrady and Žižkov dwellers of every shape and size. Its heavy oaken interior offers a light and pleasant space to enjoy a beer and traditional Czech meal. In addition, Hajnovka offers a very popular sidewalk seating area that overlooks the character-packed corner of Italská and Vinohradská streets.
Plzeňský restaurant Anděl
Nádražní 114
Smíchov is said by many to be Prague’s next major district, and the sheer number of hip, modern bars springing up all around the Anděl metro station seems to support the theory. While some lament that the area is looking less and less like Prague, one bar promises to remain resiliently and decidedly traditional in its essence and flair. At the Plzeňský restaurant Anděl, those seeking the classic drinking experience can feel right at home. Wrought from stained glass, cool bricks, thick wood and bearing rusty relics, the bar consists of a main restaurant, a small side bar and a connecting courtyard where a children’s play set and a fountain crowned with a beer-brandishing angel can be found. Communal and busy, the dark but lively interior exudes a deeply joyous and carefree attitude, with customers packing every table. This altar to Pilsner offers a taste of authentic beer-drinking culture, wedged between the new-fashioned pizzerias and cafés starting to line the street.

Kathleen Kralowec can be reached at specialsection@praguepost.com


Other articles in Summer Guide (27/06/2007):

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