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Good things come from small packages

White or brown, chicken, duck or quail, eggs are nature's miracle ingredient
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June 13th, 2007 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Everyone eats quiche when it looks this good: a Lorraine-style custard.
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No need to deal with the age-old question of which came first. For connoisseurs of eggs, it’s more important to ask, chicken or duck — or even quail? Organic or free range? White, brown or speckled?
Whatever their origin, eggs are one of the most versatile of nature’s products. They are good alone, but can be cooked in myriad ways. Whites can be whipped into meringue or cake toppings. Yolks are essential to emulsified sauces such as Hollandaise. There are many dishes that would be either impossible or incomplete without the oval package, no matter the source or color.
Actually, the color of an eggshell is no indicator of quality or taste. Simply put, birds with light earlobes lay white eggs and those with dark or red earlobes produce brown eggs. Chicken, duck and quail eggs have similar flavors, though duck eggs hold a slight edge in fat content, and maintain their structure more consistently when cooking.
The color of an egg yolk depends on a bird’s eating habits. Some commercial farms add flower petals or other natural items to feed for a healthier appearance (artificial colors are illegal). Yet the depth of color in an egg yolk has no bearing on quality, either — although feed does affect the flavor of an egg. Free-range eggs will have slight, though noticeable intricacies, depending on the bird’s diet.
Either chicken or duck eggs are appropriate for chef Georges Rognard’s recipe for quiche Lorraine. Free-range eggs are best, but a commercial variety will not hurt the pie.
When shopping, make certain to check for cracks. Resist the urge to wash newly purchased eggs — most commercial farms clean the surface. Besides, washing may strip the protective coating. Eggs will remain fresh for a month when refrigerated.
Georges Rognard is chef at Le Patio, located at Národní 22, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 224 934 375.

QUICHE LORRAINE

Ingredients (serves 4):
Dough
250 grams (8.8 ounces) flour
125 grams butter
1 egg yolk
5 centiliters (1.7 fluid ounces) water
Pinch of salt
Filling
150 grams ham, chopped
150 grams pancetta, chopped
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
25 centiliters milk
5 centiliters cream
Nutmeg
Salt and pepper
Shredded cheese (mild to sharp, depending on taste)
Preparation
Prepare dough as usual and allow to rest one hour, refrigerated.
Form dough into pan.
Mix eggs, egg yolk, milk, cream and seasonings (to taste), whisk lightly.
Spread chopped meat over crust.
Pour custard over crust and chopped meat.
Sprinkle shredded cheese across the top of custard.
Bake at 170 C (338 F) for 25 minutes.


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