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Child's Play

Outdoors in the city

By Elisabeth Amante Heys
For The Prague Post
May 9th, 2007 issue

The sun is shining and the blossoms are out, which means it’s time to head to a Prague park. The only question is which one? For all-day excursions, there are large green spaces to wander: on the north side of town, Divoká Šárka (trams 20, 26; buses 119, 218), and to the south, Michelský les and Kunratický les (metro C line to Roztyly). And there are plenty of smaller options throughout the city.

Families who want an outing with grandparents and toddlers should head to the well-paved Riegrovy sady, bordering Polská and Italská streets in Vinohrady (metro A line to Jiřího z Poděbrad or tram 11). You’ll find open paths through blooming lilac and an enclosed play area with climbing equipment, swings and a sandbox for the little ones, plus a great view of Prague Castle. In the broad gullies throughout Riegrovy sady, men and women practice Tai Chi as older folks stroll the broad avenues packed with bright pansies, mums and cat mint. A large outdoor beer garden supplies drinks and snacks on the cheap.
Looking for something a little more vigorous? Head to Petřín in Malá Strana. (metro A line to Malostranské náměstí or trams 12, 20, 22, 23, 57 to Újezd). The walk up Petřín Hill is pleasantly shady, though steep and winding. Kids with energy to spare should make the climb easily and can be rewarded with an ice cream sold from carts at the top. If the climb appears daunting, opt for the funicular, blissfully in operation once again after last summer’s repairs. Once at the summit, don’t miss climbing Petřín Tower, a petite replica of the Eiffel Tower. The 299 steps are a fun challenge for kids, and the views from the top are exquisite. Back on the ground, younger children will get a kick out of the mirror maze, located next to the tower.  (Bring plenty of change: Entry fees run 25–85 Kč/$1.21–4.10.)  
Plan to stop at the lovely Restaurant Nebozízek as you’re walking down the hill, where the kids can get a snack or meal while you enjoy the panoramic views from an outdoor table.
Because Petřín makes all the tourist books and is a “must-see,” the crowds can be dense on sunny weekends. For a less-populated destination, try the beloved Havlíčkovy sady (A line to Náměstí Míru or trams 4, 22, 23, 57), a surprisingly peaceful haven with benches nestled under fragrant pines. This park offers a clean, well-appointed and fenced-in toddler’s playground on the side facing Koperníkova street. But the real draw is a delicate, pagoda-style terrace overlooking a working vineyard. You can sample wines from the vineyard as well as order a light lunch and generous bowls of ice cream. Havlíčkovy sady is a perfect park when you are using a stroller, and it offers plenty of shade.
Families with older children should head to Stromovka (C line to Nádraží Holešovice or trams 1, 5, 12, 14, 15, 17, 53, 54 to Výstaviště), said to be Prague’s largest green space. During the Middle Ages, Stromovka was a royal hunting preserve, but today you can rent inline skates for 40 Kč per hour and glide along the ponds.
Preschoolers will enjoy an afternoon at Luna Park at the nearby Výstaviště fairgrounds. Despite its well-deserved reputation for being rundown, this small amusement park will still delight the younger set with its toddler rides, balloon slides, easy bumper cars and Ferris wheel. There’s a “horror castle” and roller coaster for the more daring.  
While you’re in the area, visit Mořský svět, Prague’s “Sea World”
(www.morsky-svet.cz) It’s a relatively small place, but no child can resist oohing and aahing over this fascinating underwater world. The exhibit is directly behind the Lapidarium — look for the clownfish painted on the building and the life-size shark’s head grinning over the door. Entrance is a stiff 240 Kč for adults and 145 Kč for kids 4–15. Those under 4 visit free.  
As your day at Výstaviště comes to a close, end the evening at Křižík Fountain, where a light and water show is set to classical and popular music. Check www.krizikovafontana.cz for show times and prices.

Elisabeth Amante Heys can be reached at tempo@praguepost.com


Other articles in Tempo (9/05/2007):

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