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New from the island

Wine from Sicily finally earns coveted DOCG recognition

By Helena Baker
For The Prague Post
May 2nd, 2007 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
The Sicilian landscape seems uninviting for vintners, but surprises await.
Apart from its famed Marsala, Sicily is not a name that trips off the tongue when one thinks of fine wine. It has other things to celebrate: Etna and native-born greats such as Archimedes, Vincenzo Bellini, Frank Capra and Salvatore Adamo.   
But wine has always been part of the daily Sicilian diet. The Ancient Greek colonists, seven centuries before Jesus, certainly knew wine. Still, not much attention was paid to quality in the past. Making wine of DOC (Denomination of Origin) status was of little interest to most producers.
Yet times here, as elsewhere, have been changing. DOCs have sprung up all over the island in recent years, with the very first DOCG (Guaranteed Denomination of Origin — the highest ranking for a wine in Italy) for the red blend Cerasuolo di Vittoria accorded so recently that it is not included in the latest reference books, the first vintage under the banner being the 2005. The town of Vittoria itself was founded in 1606, not far from Ragusa, near the southwest corner of the island, by Countess Vittoria Colonna Henriquez. She donated a hectare (2.5 acres) of land to the first 75 applicants who wished to settle there, with the proviso that they cultivate another hectare with vines.    
Vino Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a red blend of two endemic grape varieties: Nero d’Avola and Frappato, the first much appreciated for its deep color, firm body and tannins, as well as its excellent aging potential. It is characterised by plummy tones, often with an edge of caramel or chocolate. Frapatto is most valued for the fruity freshness that it adds to the overall blend.
Late last month a delegation led by Francesco Ferreri, president of the Consortium of Vino Cerasuolo di Vittoria, which represents more than 90 percent of producers, visited Prague and Moravia, holding a workshop in the Hotel Diplomat for those in the wine trade.
Winery of the month: Vinohrady Sádek  
Set beside a forest, this unique estate and wine cultural center with its own year-round restaurant and accommodation facilities now belongs to the new Znojmo wine region, though in fact it is nowhere near that town. Rather, it is situated not far from Třebíč, on the edge of the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands. A wide variety of wine-related activities include seasonal festivals, winemakers’ balls and music events featuring dulcimer folk-music bands. It also caters educational programs and family or company celebrations, as well as operating its own wine trails. From a single vineyard called Pod Sádkem, on 3.5 hectares, the property produces its own wines, including a gold medal–winning ice wine made from the Neuburger cultivar. This retails for about 300 Kč ($14.60), while average prices are in the 70 Kč range for the country wines to 100 Kč for kabinet. For more information, check www.vinohrady-sadek.cz   
Wines of the month
Local white: Cuvée Asparagus 2006
Producer: Nové Vinařství, a.s.    
As expected from a winery with an English translation meaning New Winery, bottles come in a modern design. Also gone are old-fashioned cork closures that are liable to taint; instead, bottles come with either glass stoppers or screw caps. Asparagus, especially when allowed to turn green, is notorious for its unfriendliness toward the noble beverage. However, New Winery has been working on a wine designed to match dishes featuring these wonderful spears, coming up just in time with a blend of Grüner Veltliner, which has just enough Sauvignon Blanc to give the wine a nice crispness and very pleasing acidity. The minority Sauvignon cuts through the bitterness in the greenery. It’s well worth a try at 150 Kč. To see the full range of wines, check www.novevinarstvi.cz.
Foreign red:  PKNT, Carmenere  
Producer: Terraustral Winery, Santiago, Chile
This new wine from Chile is being marketed as one of a range of wines designed to spice up your life (PKNT means Pikant). It features the country’s favorite grape variety: Carmenere, originally an unloved and unsung native of Bordeaux. The wine is almost opaque in appearance, with a light nose of soft berry fruits giving way to strawberries — a nice expression of freshness fit for a sunny spring afternoon. It is also a foil for Tex-Mex and other spicy foods. The producer is currently looking for representation in the Czech Republic, and the wine should retail for about 100 Kč. For more information, check www.pknt.com.
May Events Diary
The wine town of Valtice in south Moravia will celebrate the 40th year of its annual Valtice Wine Fair, featuring thousand of wines from home and abroad. The fair is held May 11–12 in the former stables of the chateau. For more information, check
www.valvin.cz.
Prague hosts the country’s principal wine and spirits fair — Víno & Destiláty — which celebrates its 10th year at Výstaviště in Holešovice May 15–17. While most visitors are professionally connected to the drinks trade, others interested in trying new products are most welcome. The first day is fittingly dedicated to wines of the Czech Republic, with the proceedings opened by Prime Minister Mirek Topolánek, while the following two sessions will feature France and Bulgaria. Daily, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. For more information, check www.vinodestilaty.cz.

Helena Baker can be reached at features@praguepost.com


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