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Down Mexico way

Spicy chocolate sauce for Southwestern flair
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May 2nd, 2007 issue

Jan Přerovský/THE PRAGUE POST
Mole poblano is a traditional favorite that has become popular across the globe.
By Pavel Mach

Cinco de Mayo is Spanish for May 5. It’s also a cause for celebration in Mexico.

The holiday commemorates the victory of a ragtag Mexican army over a much larger body of French troops on that day in 1862. People gather to laugh, drink and, in particular, feast on traditional specialties.
Mole is a catchall name for a variety of sauces that often differ markedly in color and intensity. “There are plenty of recipes, depending on the region,” explains Pavel Mach of Cantina.
Mexican cooking has a cosmopolitan flair, drawing on French, Spanish and native influences. Yet it also shows as much a regional character as Italian cuisine: Coastal areas feature ceviche and other seafood dishes; northern lands bordering the United States are known for hearty peasant fare. There are tropical regions, mountains … everything.
For a Cinco de Mayo–themed party, however, mole poblano seems a fitting choice. Mach calls it “one of the most popular and typical Mexican dishes.”
Mole poblano starts with chocolate, nuts and chiles. Beyond that, the recipe depends on locality and family. Chocolate takes well to piquant spices, and the bitter, rich flavor of Mexican chocolate works well with mild white meats such as turkey, the traditional protein served with mole poblano. Baking chocolate or unsweetened cocoa will work as a substitute.
The folks at Cantina are, like so many people, coy about their own recipe for mole poblano. But if you learn the basics of this recipe, you can start playing with the rest: different chilis, fruits (bananas or raisins), herbs and so forth. It is best with turkey or chicken and Spanish rice.
Pavel Mach is manager of Cantina, located at Újezd 38, Prague 1–Malá Strana. Tel. 257 317 173

Mole Poblano
Ingredients Preparation
4–12 chilis (to taste), 2 or 3 different varieties, if possible
2.5 cups tomatoes, crushed
1 onion, chopped coarsely
2–4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup nuts, shelled (almonds, peanuts or a combination)
3 ounces (84 grams) sesame seeds, toasted
1 cup fruit (bananas, apricots, raisins), chopped coarsely
2 corn tortillas
8 ounces unsweetened chocolate
Spices to taste: chili seeds, black
peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, cumin,
coriander seed
Chicken broth
Oil or lard
Seed and chop chilis. Reserve one teaspoon seeds, if desired.
Heat large pan, toast spices quickly and set aside.
Add a thin layer of oil or lard to pan, then, in turn, sauté and set aside chilis (you may roast and peel, as well), onion and garlic, fruits, nuts, tomatoes.
Melt chocolate in double boiler.
In a food processor, blend chilis into a paste, thinning with broth, if necessary, and set aside.
Combine tomatoes, onion and garlic, spices and tortillas and follow same
procedure.
Do the same with fruits and nuts,
combined.
On an oiled pan over low heat, add
ingredients, chili purée first, chocolate last, stirring each time.
Stir mixture constantly to prevent sticking.
Once mixture is smooth, allow to
simmer, stirring occasionally and thinning with broth, if necessary.
Sauce is ready when it reaches a deep red-brown color and clings to the spoon.
Serve over sliced turkey or chicken.


Other articles in Night & Day (2/05/2007):

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