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A good Klas

Decent pub fare in Smíchov, plus a little show 'n' smell

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
April 25th, 2007 issue

VLADIMÍR WEISS/THE PRAGUE POST
Crowds at Zlatý Klas appreciate decent pub fare and, perhaps, fresh Pilsner Urquell.
There’s death, taxes and Czech pubs serving roast pork knee, roast duck and fried cheese — the certainties of life.
You can also be reasonably certain it will take 20 minutes or so to flip through a typical pub menu, past pages of pasta (you know it will be soggy) and beef (likely cooked to a metamorphic state) and things with hermelín (fried or pickled).
It’s unlikely, of course, that lowly line cooks receive thorough training in everything listed. So one restaurant becomes the place for duck, another for ribs, still another if you’re hankerin’ for topinky.
A better-than-average pub is, therefore, the goal of everyone fond of good beer and hearty, traditional food. Zlatý Klas, a tankovná Pilsner hangout across from Novy Smíchov — or, more accurately, across from the Ibis Hotel adjacent to the mall — ranks right up there. Smoky flavors reach deep into the roast pork koleno. Baked hermelín stuffed with chilis, almonds and onion combines mellow, faintly bittersweet flavors. The fried cheese is crisp on the outside, not greasy. And the duck? On the dry side, but it tastes like duck.
Avoid the stuffed chicken and Hungarian “pot roast” and the albino hockey pucks … I mean dumplings.
The smell of success
Anybody passing dANico a couple Sundays ago may have noticed an awful stench wafting from the restaurant/wine bar. Seems a problem erupted in the water pipes throughout the building, spewing malodorous fumes. As a result, management explains, “There could have been a bad smell.” The place shut down for the duration.
Not (quite) ready for prime time
Still no stars for Prague restaurants, but the good folks at Michelin again awarded Bib Gourmand ratings (meaning: good food at moderate prices) to Aromi, Brasserie M and Le Terroir. The same three held Bib Gourmands last year.
End of the line
Celebrate someone’s graduation in not-so-distant Průhonice. The wildness begins at Mediterra, where the kitchen staff will prepare a menu according to your special guest’s wishes. Call 255 709 450 for details.
Final (slurred) words
Unfortunate mistranslations are becoming more less common, as a certain soon-to-visit-Prague world leader might say. But last week, the lunch menu at Jáma (conveniently just around the corner from our plush Prague Post offices) featured a piquant Hungarian dish of “mice meat ball.” Which, one hopes, meant “mince meat” instead of a newly rodent-free kitchen.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (25/04/2007):

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