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Boom with a view

While others wither, the Czech wine industry is flourishing

By Helena Baker
For The Prague Post
April 4th, 2007 issue

Photo courtesy of Czechtourism
Festive wine markets draw more people each year in Moravia and Bohemia.
When I first began following the fortunes of local winemakers at the end of the last millennium, I was pessimistic for the most part. While large conglomerates such as Bohemia Sekt and Soare would do well over the coming years thanks to German backing, and some small boutique producers too would find their niche, I, along with many others, feared obliteration of most midsize and family enterprises.
No need to fear. While the rest of the wine world seems to be in some sort of crisis, much here is changing for the better, even as imports, especially bulk and cheap wines, have increased to the point where they now equal total domestic production. Over the past year — and this marks my first anniversary as wine columnist for The Prague Post — the Czech market has boomed.
Take a trip to almost any ordinary winery in Moravia, and you will be confronted with brand-new buildings, tractors and other equipment, such as stainless-steel tanks and French oak barrels. Many boast onsite hospitality facilities, even hotels. Massive new wineries are springing up all over the place, seen as a reliable and respectable investment for the newly wealthy.
Where does the money come from to pay for all this? As usual in this country, much remains a mystery. Apart from the odd pallet, wines here are largely unknown to the outside world. Yet prices are going through the roof for all but the lowest-quality plonk. I know a producer who operates a cash-and-carry operation at his premises who was told to up his prices substantially so that bottles available in restaurants would never be seen in supermarkets.
The home market, it seems, is patriotic enough — or thirsty enough — to buy whatever is made in this country. Plenty of ready cash comes with the sale of burčák (the popular autumn fermenting grape-juice drink, called Sturm in neighboring Austria), as well. Despite the drastic fall in the price of grapes since 2005, all is very much hunky-dory for the time being.  
Winery of the month:  
Na Vinici — Konárovice
This winery was formed in 1995 by two young enthusiasts, both with degrees in chemistry. They bought land in Konárovice near Kolín, a town 60 kilometers 37 miles) east of Prague, planting vines and subsequently building a cellar. As suggested by the name of the hill Na Vinici (at the vineyard) on which the property is located, this was once a thriving viticultural area. Their first vintage was 1999, produced from Riesling, Aurelius and Moravian Muscat grapes, winning awards in several competitions. Through their activities renewing agricultural practices in locations where they had become defunct, the vintners were mentioned for the prestigious Slow Food Award 2000. And, despite a series of catastrophes, including divorce, fire and the untimely death of one of the partners, Dalibor Šabata perseveres on his own, helped by a loyal band of enthusiasts who invest spare time in the winery. Tastings for small groups and overnight accommodation are possible. For more info, check sabata@polabske.cz
Wines of the month
Foreign white: Mas de Daumas-Gassac Blanc, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault 2006
Producer: Aimé Guibert, Mas de Daumas-Gassac, Aniane, France  
This vin de pays is no ordinary country wine, coming from the legendary Aimé Guibert, now 80, who literally changed the perception of wines from Languedoc beginning in the 1970s. Hitherto known for its deep dense red wine, this estate has been described by Hugh Johnson as the only cru of the Midi. The white, a blend of Viognier, Chardonnay, Manseng and Chenin, displays a heady floral aroma leading to an incredibly intense palate of yellow fruit, such as apricots, bananas and pineapple, that lingers on and on. (450 Kč/$21.40)
Local red: Cuvée Skale 2003
Producer: Springer Family Winery, Vrbice, south Moravia    
Flagship of the Springer Family Winery, this excellent riposte to the opinion that red wines cannot be made in this country is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Saint Laurent (Svatovavřinecké). The result is densely deep purple in appearance, with an elegant nose of forest fruits and small berries laced with delicate vanilla spice. It has great potential. Decant prior to serving at 18 C(64.4 F). (1,000 Kč)
April Events Diary
Vinařské Litoměřice, the principal wine exhibition and fair in north Bohemia, takes place in Dům Kultury in the centre of Litoměřice April 13 and 14. Organized by the Orthopedic Center of Ústí nad Labem, it includes opening-day seminars touching on the important topic of wine and health. Do not be put off: This is not all tough medicine. All the leading Bohemian and Moravian wineries will have stands. For more information, check www.ortopedicke-centrum.cz

Helena Baker can be reached at features@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (4/04/2007):

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