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A cut above

There's nothing like a perfect steak
From the chef | Search restaurants | Archives

March 21st, 2007 issue

COURTESY PHOTO
Slices of heaven: A good cut of beef promises a rich and juicy dining experience.
By Zdeněk Lacman

A great steak is a beautiful, hearty and simple thing. It requires some finesse — you do not want to overcook good beef. The trick is to know how your grill (or stove) heats so you can sear each side to lock in the juices. Another is to learn to “feel” when the meat reaches the desired finish. Rare is equivalent to pressing your palm below the thumb.

Baked potato is the traditional American accompaniment, and can be dressed as you prefer. This particular sauce works nicely with good beef, enhancing the rich flavor. However, a really good steak prepared perfectly rare or medium rare will stand on its own.
Zdeněk Lacman is chef at Cowboys, located at Nerudova 40, Prague 1-Malá Strana. Tel. 296 826 105
Steak with Baked Potato
Ingredients Sauce Baked potatoes
Steak:
4 sirloin steaks of about 200 grams (7 ounces) each, cut 3–5 centimeters (1.2–2 inches) thick
250 milliliters (7.5 fluid ounces) olive oil
2 sprigs thyme
2 tablespoons
peppercorns, crushed 		50 grams parsley root
50 grams celeraic
50 grams carrots
50 grams English bacon, diced
80 grams onion,
quartered
2 tablespoons
cranberry compote
1 tablespoon tomato puree
5 juniper berries
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon black
peppercorns
400 milliliters veal bouillon
2 tablespoons roux (flour sautéed in butter)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
125 milliliters Cognac
1 deciliter (3.4
ounces) cream
3 tablespoons sugar 		6 large potatoes
Cheddar cheese
1 tomato, diced
English bacon (to taste; approximately three strips), diced
Rock salt
Butter
Chives

Preparation:
 Marinate steaks for at least one hour in olive oil and thyme.
Heat grill (or pan) until extremely hot and grill steaks to your preference. While letting steaks marinate, prepare the roux for the sauce, then start the sauce.
In a large saucepan over a medium flame, sauté the parsley root and celeraic, along with carrots and English bacon until the
vegetables are tender.
Add onions, cranberry compote, and tomato purée.
Create a bouquet garni by tying juniper berries, a bay leaf,
allspice and peppercorns in a cheesecloth bag, then add in to the sauce.
Add veal bouillon and bring to a boil.
Remove bouquet garni and, using a hand mixer, blend sauce over medium heat while adding roux in small portions.
Once thoroughly blended, return to a boil for several minutes.
Turn the heat to low, add fresh lemon juice and cook for another five minutes.
Add the cognac by first pouring it into a soup spoon and igniting it, allowing it to burn until all alcohol is consumed (about one minute) then add to the sauce.
Add cream and sugar. Stir, and strain sauce through a fine sieve, using a wooden spoon to force through, if necessary.

Baked potatoes:
 Heat oven to 180 C (356 F).
Place potatoes on a bed of rock salt and bake until tender.
Slice potatoes in half.
Press spoon into center of each and fill with a piece of butter.
Top the halves with diced tomatoes, bacon.
Shave cheddar cheese and place on top.
Place potato halves in baking dish and bake until golden brown, about five minutes.
Sprinkle with chives.


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