There is, however, at least one downside to this chugfest: By concentrating for so many centuries on beer, Czechs have failed to develop a decent cocktail culture.

Try, for example, to order a martini anywhere outside of Hapu or the upscale hotel bars. The modern version of this refined classic calls for six parts gin (or, in the post-James Bond era, vodka) to one part dry vermouth. Many aficionados wave off the latter, preferring a dash swirled in the glass then unceremoniously dumped. Yet my bartender at Dinitz Café apparently confused the cocktail with Martini brand vermouth — a common mistake. Techtle Mechtle sold the recipe in contrapose, pouring a drop or two of gin into a glass of distilled wine. Square served a glass of equal parts vodka and vermouth.

Why do so many places have trouble with such a simple cocktail?

"It's difficult to teach Czech bartenders just what a martini is," explains Martin Hamáček, manager of Barego in the Mandarin Oriental, "It's not a cocktail, it's a drink unto itself." By that, he means people often associate the martini with certain affectations, including a bit of snobbery — shaken, stirred, olive, twist and so forth.

"It's easy to make," says Marek Bibil of Allegro. "But you have to finesse it, and for that you have to have experience."

Because beer is Prague's drink of choice, and international cocktail lounges started popping up relatively recently, few local bartenders have the repeat orders necessary to develop a feel for mixing the perfect cocktail. Indeed, says Peter Collings of De Brug, "in the last eight years, I've made one martini — I think."

As matters stand, unless you want to spend half your take-home pay on a couple of nightcaps, Hapu remains the best low-rent cocktail dive in Prague. Last we checked, a decent martini cost somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 Kč ($3.40). A couple of the bartenders at Bombay shake a good approximation. Be Bop Bar in the Radisson is not bad, either.

Of course, you can always spend 600 Kč-plus (as we did, much to the chagrin of our finance department) for a couple very good examples at Allegro. For 200 Kč, however, Barego serves perhaps the best martinis in the city.

Admittedly, the economics are out of whack. A good beer in an American city: $5. A good martini in an American city: $8-12. That's a lot more tolerable than weighing 20 Kč against 200 Kč. But, says Bibil of the martini culture, people are beginning to figure out the beauty of a good, stiff drink.

"The time will come for the martini," he predicts.

Baron necessities

U Slavíků opened just before all those carp vendors showed up, filling the old Rudý Baron space. A quick peek through the windows along Korunni street reveals a tidy re-do with a keen appreciation of colors like pink and crimson, as well as a collection of faux medieval gear. Quite a few old-fashioned Czech dishes on the menu, from the looks of it.

Kavarna Atelier, in the Fénix passage just off Wenceslas Square, underwent a quick makeover at the end of 2006 — literally. Workers were pounding away right up to New Year's Eve. The result? An expansion the size of a walk-in closet.

Popular pub frontman Arnie Foley has completed his work at Three Lions. He's now bringing authentic Irish "atmosphere" to Rocky O'Reillys, at least for the time being.

Big deals

Give chef Roman Paulus a little extra cash and he blows it all on black truffles. So his restaurant, CzecHouse, must shave some of the prized fungi into appetizers and entrees, both at lunch and dinner. Paulus has even developed several recipes that highlight the musty flavors. Black Truffle Days run Jan. 18-27. Call 224 842 700 for reservations or further information.

Meanwhile, the folks at Kampa Park know that bulbous things scraped from the earth by pigs (or nowadays, trained dogs) can't satisfy the basic human desire for surf and turf. Until the end of the month, guests can select from two special menus. The first features a selection of oysters — including Kumamoto — topped off by something sparkling from Moet & Chandon. If that doesn't suit you, try the filet mignon from aged USDA prime Black Angus, with cipollini onions and a crispy potato cake on the side. Choose either surf or turf for 1,250 Kč. Call 296 826 102 for details.

Final (slurred) words

If keeping his pub open and staff at work on Christmas and New Year's makes Jáma owner Max Munson seem like a modern-day Scrooge, so be it. The expat-friendly spot was packed Dec. 24, drew a steady crowd the next day and filled up with recovering revelers the first of January. Wait staff spent New Year's Eve fueling party guests, then mopped up until 6 a.m. Looking at the full house several hours later, one waitress shook her head and moaned in Czechlish, "Much people, much people."