There's a certain appeal to Beaujolais nouveau, the hastily fermented first wine of the season. "In France you drink, you drink, you get drunk, and in the morning you have a big headache," explains Guillaume Blaise, manager of the French Institute's café. On the first night it's available, traditionally the third Thursday in November, restaurants around the world pour liberal amounts for hard-drinking revelers.

Keep in mind that Beaujolais nouveau is not good wine. In fact, many snobs dismiss it as alcoholic Kool-Aid. But Blaise stocked 200 bottles and seemed likely to sell out last Thursday. Over at Brasserie M, chef-owner Jean-Paul Manzac bought 150 bottles, including some decent old-vine selections. He had 40-plus tables reserved, with walk-ins filling the remaining seats. "Beaujolais evening is a magic evening," he says. "Party, get drunk, eat — all night." Of course, he adds, his wealthier regulars all high-tailed it to Paris for the night.

Several catered events, a large party at Palac Křižík in Smíchov and the apparent ubiquity of the wine pulled crowds in different directions. "The problem is, almost every restaurant is doing it," says Martin Hofman, general manager of La Provence. Indeed, walking through the alleys behind Old Town Square last Thursday, you could see promotional signs up everywhere. The French Institute looked like an assembly line, with people ordering, gulping and moving on.

"There are a lot of places for Beaujolais," Hofman notes. "The important thing is to fill up the place, have a free atmosphere." His restaurant resorted to a little gimmickry: cancan girls and singer Radka Fišarova in the guise of Edith Piaf.

"It's better to drink this year," is Hofman's summary. "Or maybe I'm just getting thirsty."

Last-minute Thanksgiving

Guests arriving and you forgot something important, such as cranberry sauce or, God forbid, the big bird itself? Don't fret. The grocery for homesick expats, Culinaria, has things covered. Starters, soups, salads, dessert and, yes, roast turkey with homemade gravy are all available to go Nov. 23-25. Normally the kitchen staff recommends seven days' notice — but this is an emergency, right? So you can call last-minute (224 231 237) for deviled eggs, pumpkin soup, Waldorf salad, bacon and chestnut stuffing, mashed potatoes, pecan pie or about 30 other options, including a couple hors d'oeuvres. Pies are sold either by the slice or whole.

New deals

Radisson's La Rotonde restaurant is taking diners on a trip around the world, figuratively, with a fusion menu based on the journeys of Captain Cook. Visit the explorer's ports of call through Caribbean pepper pot, jumbo prawns cooked over smoldering banana leaves, king fish fillet with baked breadfruit (the bane of another famous captain) and other unique courses. Radisson's assistant chef Stephen Senewiratne came up with the idea while casually flipping through Captain Cook's diaries and finding several mentions of meals. The event runs through Dec. 3.

If you're willing to bus out to Průhonice, let the folks at Mediterra know and they will bake up a batch of traditional Czech Christmas cookies for take-away. The pastry chef promises they will look homemade, so you don't have to be bashful about taking credit. (After all, you paid for the ride out there.) Minimum order is 1 kilogram for 570 Kč (2.2 pounds for $26) — not bad, as street prices go. Available until Dec. 15; call 255 799 537 for information or to place an order.

A handy offer from the folks at V Zátiší is bottles of wine to go. They stock holiday Champagne, reds and whites, but the selection is subject to change, so stop by the restaurant to pick up a price list. Extra savings for Zátiší Club members.

The New Town expat hangout Jáma is changing its burger menu, perhaps in hopes of regaining the top spot in Prague from Fraktal and Mon Ami. Last Tuesday, a squad of regulars tested patties marinated in Jack Daniels, studded with cracked black pepper, coated with dark honey and smoked salt, along with other gourmet ground beef combos.

Allegro hosts Lisbon chef Stephene Hestin and will offer dishes from Portugal Nov. 29-Dec. 3.

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