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A tale of two sushis

New arrivals strut the same stuff — fish and rice — differently
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By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
November 22nd, 2006 issue

Maki, nigiri and other Japanese creations as presented at Samurai, one of Prague's slew of new sushi restaurants.

It's disconcerting when a friend of the sushi chef points at something on the menu and receives, in response, a quick but definite wave-off. You have to wonder — are they out? Is it rancid? Did I order whatever it is?

This particular incident occurred during a visit to Eurasie, one of two new Japanese restaurants. Since its introduction to skeptical Western audiences a couple of decades ago, sushi has emerged as a mainstay in cities worldwide. Here it's become so common that Coffee Heaven stocks prepackaged rolls, and a little stand in pasaž Světozor serves take-away raw fish.

Eurasie and Samurai are, ostensibly, quite different restaurants. The former occupies a small storefront in the tourist zone. Inside is a world of beige and brown, with transparent screens that can be drawn down for semiseclusion. Otherwise, it's a casual operation.

Samurai

Londýnská 73
Prague 2-New Town
Tel. 774 422 217
Open Mon.-Sat. noon-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-11:30 p.m.; Sun. 6 p.m.-11:30 p.m.

Food
Service
Atmosphere
Overall
Someone I took to be the owner sat in full view shuffling stacks of paperwork during both of my visits. Was she searching the Internet for fresh fish? Financial backing? Given the sloppy sand-shell-dried-plant dioramas ensconced in the tables, it appears the place ran short at some point.

Samurai, on the other hand, is gorgeous. Linear and simple, it's dressed in stark black and white up front, elegant earth tones in the back rooms and subdued colors around the downstairs bar. There are fountains, hibachis, secluded tatami rooms where you call wait staff with the push of a button — in both look and feel, quite posh.

Despite the radical differences in style, the restaurants have only a marginal gap between items served. Both prepare maki, nigiri and some creative rolls. Both offer "fusion" of sorts — like a duck breast roll at Samurai, or Eurasia's "Idaho" burger.

From the Menu
  • Maki 100-170 Kč
  • Nigiri 60-140 Kč
  • Sashimi (3 pcs) 100-290 Kč
  • Spider roll 360 Kč
  • California roll 290 Kč

Distinctions between the restaurants may be one of degrees, but they favor Samurai. Miso at Eurasia falls flat. Samurai's starts with a tart burst; then the flavors quickly descend into an earthiness more representative of bean curd. Eurasia's "spicy" sea perch, resembles a disturbingly chunky mass of Thousand Island dressing. And the salmon nigiri looks anything but vibrant. Samurai's at least seems to have survived freezer time relatively intact, with a smooth texture and a hint of the strong flavor that makes it such a highly prized fish.

From the Menu
  • Maki 70-210 Kč
  • Nigiri 50-90 Kč
  • Sashimi (3 pcs) 90-225 Kč
  • Eurasie maki 280 Kč
  • Spicy sea perch 85 Kč

Lackluster product is something both restaurants struggle with, however. Two versions of tuna I ordered at Samurai — a nigiri and a maki — tended toward blandness. A sashimi presentation at Eurasia apparently arrived from the freezer that morning, lending the recently defrosted meat a mushy texture. Yes, most raw fish eaten at sushi restaurants, even in the home islands, spent some time on ice. What makes one sushi joint stand out above another is more a matter of base quality, the process by which the fish was frozen and thawed and the chef's skill.

Fortunately, both handle their makisu well and create a few standouts. The eponymous Eurasia roll, centered on flying fish roe but draped with a sliver of salmon, contrasts granular bursts of saltiness with bright vegetables and silken, though somewhat dull, fish. The restaurant's sesame-crusted omelet nigiri has a muted sugar that is striking against the soft nuttiness of the crust. Samurai puts together a spider roll that pings notes up and down the scale: mellow, sweet and crisp.

Eurasie

Maiselova 16
Prague 1-Old Town
Tel. 222 312 505
Open daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Food
Service
Atmosphere
Overall

In general, the chefs at both restaurants prepare nicely proportioned dishes. There are memorable flaws, but, for the most part, their work is solid.

Any shortcomings lie in the quality of their product. And Samurai pokes into "above-average" territory more often. In the final analysis, for those who crave Japanese cuisine, the arrival of these two places is neither the best of times nor the worst of times.

Dave Faries can be reached at dfaries@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (22/11/2006):

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