There are currently 24,000 registered European Union immigrants working in professional kitchens throughout the United Kingdom, and the majority of Czechs employed (legally) in EU states, some 17,600 of them, zero in on England. So says data from the Labor and Social Affairs Ministry, anyway.

A quick inquiry at Jáma (gotta love research) yields supporting evidence: All but two staff members know a cook who skedaddled over the Channel. Or under it, more likely. "It's costly," Jáma owner Max Munson says, when kitchen guys jump ship. "It stresses the kitchen and the chef, who has to double up his work." Surly guys with sharp knives — very bad. Not only that, it turns the process of locating qualified cooks to fill Prague's vacancies into a needle-and-haystack deal.

"I still don't know how to find the right people here," complains newcomer Jerome Lorieux, chef at La Provence, part of the Kampa Group. "And Kampa pays better than most."

Meanwhile, Konhefr is struggling to find a sous chef and a couple cooks for Fluidum, but his folks see it as a mere exaggeration of the usual restaurant headaches.

"Maybe you worry," says Lukáš Pešek, Fluidum's manager and sommelier, "but that's the business. People are coming and people are going."

Tales of reconstruction

Why endure all the mess and fuss of remodeling? The often-overlooked pizza-pub-cocktail bar combo once known as Tekuta Historie decided to simply post an amateurish sign out front serving the same purpose, without all the bother. So, same look, new name: Bibita. Management claims the changeover is a kind of tribute to a failed pub that once existed in the space, also known as Bibita. Nothing like jumping on a successful bandwagon.

The kavárna and restaurant Retro, just off náměstí Miru, shut down and reopened after a week of furious remodeling and seems not to have skipped a beat, while nearby one-time favorite Rudy Baron also shut down with little fanfare. An extensive face-lift is under way.

Recipes for success

Let's assume chef Jiří Štift merely "borrowed" the recipe book of one Dieter Müller, a German chef with three Michelin stars. The light-fingered head cook at Alcron is using it to offer a special menu at his small but highly regarded restaurant inside the Radisson.

Through Nov. 5, Štift will whip up some of Müller's multistar dishes, including scallops in lemon grass, poached halibut with herb crusted langoustines and the ever-popular melon soup with lobster ice cream. For dessert, how 'bout foie gras crčme brělée?

Chef Sofia Smith joins Rudolf Doležal at Oliva to whip up dishes inspired by North African flavors. On Friday, Oct. 27 (dinner), and Saturday, Oct. 28 (lunch and dinner), sample such exotic items as saffron and orange celeriac soup, ruby-red couscous or Ras el-Hanout scented lamb confit with pomegranate and quince glaze. Call 222 520 288 for reservations.

You say it's your birthday?

Out in Průhonice, the upscale brasserie Mediterra will prepare a birthday menu according to your wishes for your party. The deal comes complete with a cake and "other surprises," one of which is a 10 percent discount. Of course, you've got to show some ID. And name days don't count. For more info, call 255 709 450.

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