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July 4th, 2008
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Hotel Prague Centre


Cultural exchange

Aussie-owned bar strikes a local ambience

By Dave Faries
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
September 27th, 2006 issue

Don’t call Fat Boys an Aussie bar. Sure, Norman Birse moved here from Sydney with partner Lenka Hrubá and bought the diminutive spot on Malá ˇtupartská one year ago this month, but he insists the tourist-zone dive is more for locals: “We’re a Czech bar — we’re in Prague.” No sense in arguing the point, given the owner’s Butkus-like physique. In Prague, though, few Czechs hang out in Brit redoubts like Caffrey’s, George & Dragon or Rocky O’Reillys. Some Irish visitors even refuse to approach the English enclave Three Lions. But Fat Boys attracts a mix of Aussies, Czechs and random tourists from just about everywhere. Why? Birse claims true Australian pubs resemble the local hospodas scattered throughout the city, particularly when it comes to ambience. “We’ve never taken ourselves too seriously and we’re a solid people,” he says of folks from Down Under. “I’ve found that in common with Czechs.” Both cultures have a reputation for prodigious consumption of fermented grain and hops, too.

Wonder what it’s like Down Under? Norman Birse outside his multicultural hospoda.

Wish upon a star

Several chefs in the city covet one of those Michelin stars. Only 45 or so restaurants across Europe hold the top rank — three stars — and chefs have been known to off themselves when they lose one. No restaurant in Prague owns a star, so chefs here are free to live long and fruitful lives. But a visitor is bringing one: CzecHouse Grill is hosting chef Thierry Baudour of Maison du Boeuf in Brussels, which boasts a single celestial mark. Between Oct. 12 and 21, the renowned chef will whip up a selection of dishes that helped earn him a star, such as steak tartare, terrine of fresh goose liver and other examples of Continental pizzaz. Baudour picked up his Michelin star back in 1992, by the way, and has held on to it steadfastly.

Stag party

Another hotel, the InterContinental, is getting a jump on the usual fall deer kill. From Oct. 2 through 22, Duke’s Bar & Café (inside the hotel, not on the roof), offers varied recipes, all featuring venison.

Dial M for brunch

One of three local restaurants with Bib Gourmand status in the Michelin guide, Brasserie M, resumed its ever-popular Sunday brunch program early in September. There will be a different theme each month — and you’ve already missed Mediterranean cooking. Best of all, the restaurant sets aside a play corner for children supervised by a babysitter. Brunch is every Sunday from noon to 3 p.m.

The not-so-great raid

In one of their periodic raids, immigration enforcement officials recently burst into Banditos, the popular Tex-Mex joint, rounding up a total of two employees who lacked the proper credentials. The government rarely cracks the whip unless someone tips them off. In this case, it was apparently a disgruntled former employee. Owner Aron Halvorsen found lawyers for both unfortunate scofflaws; one will miss an estimated two months of work, the other six. Halvorsen may also have to pay a fine — he’ll know the decision this week — but is otherwise philosophical on the matter. “It’s been stressful,” he admits, “but we didn’t have to close.” Good thing. Otherwise the chips-and-salsa set would have to ride out to Prague 3’s Sonora for a really big burrito.

King fish

Three Lions has revamped its menu and now promises traditional fish and chips, which presumably means plaice or, uh, the other one, wrapped in old copies of Mlada fronta Dnes. The “three” is being dropped from the name, too, as soon as details such as new logos and signage can be worked out.

Brush-off

The Globe has a new look, but it took awhile. Painters no-showed three different times before finally getting down to business — sort of. Word is that the first crew came without any paint. Eventually they got down to business, but a quick lick of paint still took five days to apply.

Slurred words

At a gala dinner for Cambodian royalty, the government served plates of svíăková. Tense diplomatic situation forthcoming. … Rush over to U Závoje Sept. 27 for a whiskey and rum tasting. Then stagger home.

Got some food news or good culinary gossip? Contact Dave Faries at dfaries@praguepost.com


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