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A Czech classic

Nothing soaks up beer like a hearty goulash

August 30th, 2006 issue

The perfect Czech pairing, especially when you add paprika and a few dumplings.

From the chef Lukáš LoboLukáš Lobo

Goulash is a Czech standard, and everyone has a favorite recipe. No matter whether you like it spicy or meatier or even with more tomato, the key is good, tender meat. The heart of this recipe is basting the beef while constantly reducing the liquid, keeping the two in balance.

This will make a spicy and rich sauce with well-caramelized meat, drawing sweetness from the onion. Like any recipe, you can adjust the spices to your taste, but I prefer something with a kick, topped by paprika slices.

This is the way it goes best with a cold Pilsner Urquell.

Lukáš Lobo is chef at Celnice, part of the Kolkovna Group. It is located at V Celnici 4, Prague 1–New Town. Tel. 224 212 240.

PILSNER GOULASH(Serves five)
Ingredients
  • 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) beef, cut into cubes
  • 0.1 kilogram lard or oil
  • 1 onion
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground paprika
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt
  • 4 tablespoons ketchup
  • 1 tablespoon pepper
  • 2–3 teaspoons caraway seed
  • 2–3 tablespoons wheat flour
  • 4–6 cloves garlic
  • 2–3 teaspoons marjoram
  • 3–5 fresh chilies
  • Water
  • Dumplings
  • 225 grams (8 ounces) milk
  • 10 grams yeast
  • 425 grams meal flour
  • 10 grams salt
  • 20 grams eggs
  • 90 grams leavened dough
  • Potato pancakes
  • 420 grams peeled potatoes
  • 50 milliters milk
  • 100 grams wheat flour
  • 20 grams egg
  • 10 grams garlic
  • 5 grams salt
  • 1 gram marjoram
  • ground pepper
  • 100 grams lard (oil)
Preparation
  • Peel the onion, chop into small pieces, sauté in lard/oil until turns clear.
  • Add meat and fry while stirring continuously.
  • Add ground paprika, stir briefly, add salt, ketchup, pepper, caraway seed.
  • Baste with water; stew under lid while stirring occasionally.
  • Once the meat is partly tender, sprinkle with flour, continue stirring and basting with hot water.
  • Add slices of garlic, marjoram and stew gradually with occasional stirring until tender. Serve decorated with fresh chili and onion rings.
  • Best served with white-bread dumplings, small potato pancakes.
  • Dumplings
  • Use lukewarm milk, yeast and flour to prepare a runny leaven and allow to rise.
  • Sift the flour (leave some flour for shaping the dumplings later). Add salt, egg mixed with some milk, lukewarm milk and yeast.
  • Make dough with added small cubes of leavening.
  • Allow the dough to rise, slice to similarly sized pieces and shape in hand to longish flour cylinders about 20 centimeters (8 inches) long.
  • Place these in slightly salted boiling water and boil for 17–20 minutes. Remember to turn the dumplings.
  • Remove from pot when done and pierce the dumplings with a fork to let steam out and prevent them from curdling.
  • Small potato pancakes
  • Grate washed potatoes finely, press out water, add milk, sifted wheat flour, egg, garlic (pounded to paste with salt), finely crushed marjoram and mix thoroughly.
  • Pour dough on a heated pan previously greased with lard (oil) and fry till golden brown.
  • Serve fresh: A potato pancake kept warm for a longer period of time loses its tenderness.


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