Svatomartinské víno je tady!

That's not the expression most of us are used to hearing this time of year, though it could someday become as common as its ubiquitous French equivalent, le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé, a slogan that appears on billboards and restaurant tables from here to Ultima Thule. On the third Thursday in November, one of the world's most successful marketing campaigns tries to clear out Burgundy's annual glut of gamay with the young wine that is both derided and beloved, though more often the former than the latter.

But France is not the only country to produce young wine. Though few locals and even fewer expatriates know about it, the Czech Republic also boasts a young wine sold only after a specific day in November: Svatomartinské víno, available after 11 a.m. on Nov. 11, St. Martin's Day.

"This wine is alive," says Karel Slavík, a sommelier who works for the winemaker Znovín Znojmo. "We need to drink it now. But it might be even better after a month of cellaring."

Tightly controlled by the Czech winemakers' organization, only wines that meet certain criteria may be called Svatomartinské and use the wine's special logo, a silhouetted figure on a white horse. There are laboratory analyses for quality and taste. And the wines may only contain four kinds of grapes, either straight or in blends: Müller-Thurgau and veltlínské červené ranné for whites, svatovavřinecké and modrý Portugal for reds and rosés.

Like Beaujolais nouveau, Svatomartinské is a cheap, moderately acidic quaff. It's not meant to be a prized bottle for the cellar, but rather just a good table wine to enjoy right now.

"It should be simple, fruity and fresh," says Klára Kollárová, who works at the Euroteka wine shop. "The white wines should have a really rich aroma, fruity and floral."

Müller-Thurgau, in particular, seems to respond well to the Svatomartinské treatment, at least in the right hands. Znovín's version is a delicious, remarkably well-structured white with excellent citrus and floral notes in the bouquet, which might help rehabilitate Müller-Thurgau's lagging reputation as a bland, unpleasant bottle.

The reds can vary in taste and aroma, Kollárová says, though she notes that there should be certain traits in common.

"Modrý Portugal and svatovavřinecké ripen early, so the winemakers have enough time to make a wine out of it," Kollárová says. "It should have red fruit — it can be marmalade, strawberry, cherry, plums, a wide range, but it should be smooth and velvety. There shouldn't be strong tannins."

Though Svatomartinské may seem like a cheap attempt to ride Beaujolais' monied coattails, St. Martin's Day has been significant for winemakers in the Czech lands for 500 years or more. Way back in the days before marketing campaigns, it was the traditional day for tasting each year's vintage.

"This was a feast day when the nobles would get together and try their wines," says Slavík. "The first wines of the year were always drunk on St. Martin's Day."

Through the centuries, similar traditions have held on in many of the country's winemaking regions. In Moravia, winemakers still meet on St. Martin's Day to visit and compare their wines.

"It's said that winemakers clink their glasses with a proper wine only on the 11th," says Kollárová. "Before, they couldn't clink their glasses because there wasn't yet a real wine."

This year marks the first that more Czech winemakers are offering Svatomartinské víno — many of whom are smaller, artisanal producers. As such, you won't find too many of their bottles in supermarkets. Look instead in quality wine shops, though you needn't pay a lot of money: Many producers sell their Svatomartinské for around 100 Kč ($4) a bottle. Ask for shopkeepers' recommendations and look for the white horse logo, which stems from the expression Svatý Martin přijede na bílém koni — St. Martin arrives on a white horse — referring to the first snowfall that often comes around Nov. 11.

Regardless of the weather, don't take it too seriously: Svatomartinské víno should remind you of summer days, lightness and youth.

"You should have a feeling that the wine is alive — it makes you laugh, it makes you feel good," says Kollárová. "It's young. It's fruity. It's full of energy."

Wines of the month

Look for these wines at Euroteka wine shop, Jeruzalémská 10, Prague 1–Old Town, Tel. 222 245 353.

2005 Svatomartinské Svatovavřinecké, Znovín Znojmo

An aroma of vanilla and plum povidla. Slightly dry in the mouth with concentrated plum flavors much like slivovice, minus the alcohol. A very slight, modest finish.