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Refined Czech cuisine

Charm your friends with this century-old recipe

November 16th, 2005 issue

This classic lamb recipe from Rettigová shows off the best of domestic cooking.

From the chef: Pavel Ouhrabka

Because of my passion for Czech cuisine, I really appreciated the offer to become the chef in our restaurant, Patriot. I want to present the cuisine which is closest to my heart, and show people that Czech food is not just about goulash and duck with dumplings. I want to show off the so-called Czech classics in very attractive versions with top-quality ingredients and a different presentation than usual.

I am trying to lighten the historically "heavy" meals by using minimum fat and not thickening with flour. I also try to use bio products — green fresh herbs, edible flowers, and fresh meat and fish.

I always prepare meals in accordance with the season, because the ingredients have advanced tastes and scents at the top of their season. I also find pleasure and inspiration in old, historical recipes. They are very interesting and allow me to use long-forgotten ingredients such as black salsify, sorrel and thyme. That is why I would like to introduce you to the 100-year-old recipe for lamb sirloin from the classic cookbook by M.D. Rettigová.

This meal is very popular and sought after by everybody. From our cellar, I usually pair it with a 2000 brunello di Montalcino from Marchesi de'Frescobaldi.

I really believe that if you prepare this dish perfectly, your family and friends will have a remarkable experience with Czech cuisine. Try it.

Pavel Ouhrabka is the chef at Patriot, V Celnici 3, Prague 1–Old Town, Tel. 224 235 158.

Lamb sirloin

For the lamb (per portion)

  • 200 grams (7 ounces) lamb sirloin

  • 1 spoon (garden thyme, rosemary, salvia)

  • salt to taste

  • 50 grams butter

  • 15 grams olive oil

  • 2 teaspoons sugar

  • 30 grams Parmesan

  • 1 teaspoon cream

For the cabbage (for five portions)

  • 500 grams young cabbage

  • 50 grams ginger

  • 1 deciliter white wine

  • bouillon

  • salt

  • white pepper

  • 1 deciliter milk

  • 1 deciliter cream

For the stuffing

  • 300 grams rye bread (in half-centimeter slices)

  • 1 clove garlic

  • 50 grams bacon

  • 30 grams onion

  • Parsley, salt and white pepper

  • Pinch nutmeg

  • Lemon peel to taste

  • 2 egg yolks

  • 2 whisked egg whites

  • To prepare the cabbage, cut it into thin noodles and infuse them in hot water. Chop the peeled ginger with the garlic and fry both very lightly in butter, then add the infused cabbage and cook. Add a little water and white wine (you can also add a bit of sugar) and stew it until it is soft and tender. Then add salt, pepper and cream. Leave to reduce.

  • To prepare the stuffing, cut the onion finely and fry in butter. Cut rye bread (without crust) into small cubes (approximately 1 centimeter) and cut the bacon in half-centimeter cubes. Then blend everything and sprinkle it into milk with the yolks and mix. Add chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon peel and whisked whites. Stir it and put into a bread mold or a deer mold. Cover and bake in a water bath for one hour at 160 C (320 F). Remove and cool, then slice or cut into small triangles, which you can steam or fry quickly in butter.

  • To prepare the lamb, remove the membrane from the meat and marinate in herbs for 12 hours. Heat olive oil on high and fry the meat quickly on both sides — it should be uncooked inside. Salt the meat, cut in half and tie vertically with a strip of leek, infused before in hot water. Melt Parmesan with cream and warm gently until the mixture thickens. Put aside and let chill. Put the cold Parmesan mixture on the meat and bake until the cheese gets a tawny color. The meat will be more well-done but should still be pink and juicy.

  • Put the meat on a warmed plate. Add a bit of bouillon and cream to the baking juice from the meat, salt and reduce over high heat. Set cabbage and stuffing in a sandwich shape (varying the thickness); add the meat and sauce and decorate with herbs.


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