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November 21st, 2008
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Practically divineCoffee and alcohol make memorable drinks togetherBy Evan Rail Staff Writer, The Prague Post August 24th, 2005 issue
A sip of coffee and a sudden memory: the Greek church of my hometown, sometime close to my sixteenth birthday. The liturgy ends, the crowd moves to the social hall; I stand with my birdlike grandmother in a line that rattles with talk from the old country. We reach the paper-covered folding table where men are selling small shots of Metaxa and Styrofoam cups of coffee from a large urn with a single Cyclops eye, bright orange. My grandmother asks for two of each, pays and slips the brandy straight into her coffee, nodding for me to do the same. Though simple, my grandmother's quiet after-church cocktail was so harmonious in taste as to seem practically divine. But there are many other such blends, often with far more formal recipes that illuminate how well coffee and alcohol complement each other. Both drinks contain intense, highly concentrated flavors, though in different signatures. Where strong coffee is earthy and low, alcohol is bright and uplifting in taste, playing the high flute harmony to java's deep bassoon. Both drinks strike a similar balance between acid and base, resting fairly close to neutral pH, usually just on the side of the weak acids. And of course, both great coffee and great spirits are cherished by their fans. The "training center" Web site of Italy's Lavazza coffee company contains recipes for a half-dozen coffee-and-alcohol blends. Perhaps the best known of these is the classic Irish coffee, a mix of java and Irish whiskey topped with sweetened whipped cream. Decent Irish coffee can be made with filter coffee, instant, Turkish or espresso, though the better the java, the better the drink will be. And though any type of Irish whiskey will do, I am partial to Jameson, and in large amounts.
Lavazza also has a recipe for café Brulot, a drink in which cinnamon, cloves, sugar, and orange and lemon peels are flambéed in a saucepan with cognac which is then filtered and added to strong coffee, then topped with whipped cream. Also intriguing is the ciao Turin, a mix of espresso, cognac and rum in equal portions, scented with lemon peel and cloves. Here in Central Europe, something called Algerian coffee alz Algerian coffee is seemingly unknown as such outside of the Czech Republic and Slovakia, meaning it is perhaps our own homegrown coffee highball. Other coffee-and-alcohol beverages are usually named after the country that produces or is associated with the liqueur included: Swiss coffee with schnapps, Jamaican coffee with spiced rum. Unfortunately, Greek coffee does not seem to exist in a formal recipe. If memory serves me correctly, it should. Evan Rail can be reached at erail@praguepost.com Other articles in Night & Day (24/08/2005):
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