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Rivaling Jane Austen

How to pull off the perfect summer meal — outdoors

By Lillian Dunn
For The Prague Post
August 17th, 2005 issue

Czechoslovak President Edvard Benes, gesturing, at a picnic in the Slovak mountains.

When's the last time you actually had a picnic? Not just thought about having one, or told a friend that you should have one but then were too busy? Can't remember? Picnics are one of those quintessential summer activities that are talked about a lot more often than they actually happen, like catching fireflies or remembering to get all the supplies together for s'mores.

Which is puzzling, because having a picnic — whether a spartan bread-and-cheese meal or a twelve-course affair to rival Jane Austen's — can be delightfully simple, with a little foresight and a few bits of advice from the pros.

Carefully considering the setting of your picnic is important, as one of the main persuasions of the moveable feast is its promise of a brief respite from urban living, according to Tanya Morrison, a personal chef. "A picnic is a chance to meet a friend for lunch and feel as if you've really gotten away from the usual everyday things," she says. "I do a lot of big garden parties, but a picnic is different. You change the setting and your mindset."

Picnic tips
  • Pita chips stay crunchy better and are more interesting than a conventional cracker. To make pita chips, cut pita bread into wedges, spread the wedges with olive oil and toast them until lightly brown.
  • If you make a guacamole dip, save the pit of the avocado and put it back into the container with the dip when you're done. This will prevent the guacamole from losing its green color when you transport it.
  • Transport salad and dressing separately, as mixing them ahead of time will leave the leaves soggy.
  • Weighty, crustier breads in big slices work better for picnics than delicate white breads and thin slices, which become soggy or curly at the edges.

To get that sense of escape, it's location, location, location — and picnickers in Prague are in very good luck, whether looking for some blissfully quiet green space or good people-watching territory. Beyond the usual favorite, Petrín Hill, which will give you the chance to say "funicular" at least once or twice, the city also offers an overwhelming number of little-known nooks and crannies. Further up the hill from Petrín, the walled orchard at the north end of Stráhovska zahrada affords quiet and a great view to anyone dedicated enough for the climb. The Divoká Sárka valley on the outskirts of the city, covered by woods and crisscrossed by cold streams, feels in parts like true wilderness, and is reachable by public transportation and a little walk. (Tram 26 ends at Divoka Sárka, and buses 119 and 218, departing from metro station Dejvicka, stop there as well.)

When you consider trucking your picnic up a hillside, the scale of the meal becomes important. For Sofia Aziz, a caterer, chef and occasional Post recipe columnist, a small picnic is the most satisfying and elegant.

"Even the simplest things taste really good outside, so buy a big rustic loaf of bread, some good cheese and berries, and don't fuss too much," Aziz says. "Part of the point of a picnic is that it's specific to summer, and the seasonal produce here is really good, especially the berries. So I would definitely bring some along on my picnic. I would rather have one perfect Czech peach instead of a bowl of exotic fruit salad."

Along with quality fruit and bread, Aziz says, things that pack and keep well — like hummous — make excellent accompaniments. There are also several other details that can make a big difference in a simple meal. "If you're bringing salad, always remember to separate the dressing and the salad in Tupperware until you get to the picnic," Aziz says. "Also, don't make anything too creamy, or sandwiches with mayonnaise — it becomes an oil slick after a while."

But if the idea of an Austen-esque picnic — complete with linen, silver, and footmen — is what appeals to you, there are several ways to quickly class it up.

"Personally, I think the more decadent the picnic, the better," says Morrison. "Just using glass containers will make it feel a little fancier. So bring glass tumblers instead of wine glasses, which can be too delicate. And for god's sake, don't forget the corkscrew."

Sylvia Havelka, owner of posh Old Town deli Culinaria, says her taste in picnics also runs a little more formal. "I would definitely bring along some of our fresh couscous with orange," she says. "Eating outside in the scenery should still be high-quality. But to be honest, I haven't had the time for a picnic in three years."

Whether it's gourmet or plebian fare, the most difficult part of a picnic doesn't seem to be deciding the menu, but rather having one at all. With just over a month left until the official end of summer, you'd better get started.

Lillian Dunn can be reached at features@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (17/08/2005):

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