The Prague Post
August 30th, 2008
Endowment Fund     Business Listings ONLINE      Reservations      Classifieds    Subscriptions
Hotel Prague Centre


History in a bottle

Fortified wines once again rise in quality

By Evan Rail
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
July 20th, 2005 issue

To the unaccustomed ear, "fortified wine" sounds like something you'd prefer to drink at home, provided that your home is under a bridge or behind a park bench. But replace that phrase with "port," "sherry" or "Marsala" and you have a beverage that hits a decidedly different register — an old-fashioned one, for sure, but one that also has a touch of lingering nobility.

In fact, port, sherry, Madeira, Marsala and even Edgar Allen Poe's old cask of amontillado are all fortified wines, and all with storied pasts. Port was a sensation when the English first tried it in the late 1600s, and British wine merchants quickly created a monopoly on its export until a slew of scandals forced them from power in the 1730s. Many fortified wines caught on with the upper classes in 18th- and 19th-century England, primarily through their popularity with the Royal Navy, as the wines were well-suited for long sea voyages, resisting spoilage due to their higher alcohol levels.

Admiral Nelson's officers particularly enjoyed Marsala, first produced in 1793 in Sicily by an Englishman, John Woodhouse, who learned the technique in Spain. The 18th-century craze for fortified wines continued in the colonies even after the British had left: In America, Madeira was used to toast both the Declaration of Independence in 1776 and George Washington's presidential inauguration in 1789.

Wine of the month

2002 Šaler port-style wine, Špalek, Nový Šaldorf
17 percent alcohol
Around 240 Kč ($10) in select wine shops


This blend of frankovka and modrý Portugal has a deep purple tone, much like fresh cherry juice. The bouquet is stewed fruit and sangria with some earthy and nutty tones. In the mouth, the alcohol is in balance with the taste of raspberry jam, fresh strawberries and wood; the texture is refreshing, more watery and slightly less sticky than might be expected. The finish is pleasantly sweet with lasting fruit flavors.

Look for Šaler and other high-quality fortified wines at Cellarius (Štěpánská 61, inside Pasáž Lucerna, tel. 224 210 979).

Unfortunately, interest in fortified wines waned dramatically after its apex, and the quality of many varieties has suffered. In particular, connoisseurs have long looked down on sherry, Marsala and Malaga, considering them suited for the kitchen at best. However, standards have started to rise dramatically in recent years, and both Marsala and sherry are once again attracting attention of fans of fine wine.

The typical process for making a fortified wine involves harvesting, crushing and fermenting grapes in the same manner as regular wine. When about half the sugar has been turned into alcohol, the wine is mixed with grape spirits, or brandy, which stops the fermentation. With port, the remaining wine is aged for a year, then blended with other varieties.

The result might be a bit heavy to consume by the bottle, but the complexity of a well-blended port or Marsala makes a magnificent drink to sip and contemplate. And as a digestif, a glass of port after a good meal is nearly without equal.

Lest you think all good fortified wines come from abroad, Nový Šaldorf's Špalek Family Winery produces a notable bottle in the port style. Called Šaler, it is made with a different blend of grapes each year: One version available now is a mix of two favored Czech varietals, frankovka and modrý Portugal. It has a very good reputation among local wine lovers — but there's no word yet on what Admiral Nelson thinks.

Evan Rail can be reached at erail@praguepost.com


Other articles in Night & Day (20/07/2005):

Browse the Current Issue

If you enjoyed this article, why don't you subscribe to the print version!
We accept secure online transactions provided by PayPal and Moneybookers

Be the first to add a comment!


Full Name: *
City: *
E-mail: **
This comment can be published in the print version of The Prague Post
Enter the text on the right:
visual captcha
Comment: *
* Required field. In order to be approved for display, comments must have a first and last name and a city.
** E-mails are required and will only be used for internal purposes.

Most visited in Business Listings


The Prague Post Online contains a selection of articles that have been printed in
The Prague Post, a weekly newspaper published in the Czech Republic.
To subscribe to the print paper, click here.
Unauthorized reproduction is strictly prohibited.