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August 30th, 2008
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History in a bottleFortified wines once again rise in qualityBy Evan Rail Staff Writer, The Prague Post July 20th, 2005 issue
In fact, port, sherry, Madeira, Marsala and even Edgar Allen Poe's old cask of amontillado are all fortified wines, and all with storied pasts. Port was a sensation when the English first tried it in the late 1600s, and British wine merchants quickly created a monopoly on its export until a slew of scandals forced them from power in the 1730s. Many fortified wines caught on with the upper classes in 18th- and 19th-century England, primarily through their popularity with the Royal Navy, as the wines were well-suited for long sea voyages, resisting spoilage due to their higher alcohol levels. Admiral Nelson's officers particularly enjoyed Marsala, first produced in 1793 in Sicily by an Englishman, John Woodhouse, who learned the technique in Spain. The 18th-century craze for fortified wines continued in the colonies even after the British had left: In America, Madeira was used to toast both the Declaration of Independence in 1776 and George Washington's presidential inauguration in 1789.
Unfortunately, interest in fortified wines waned dramatically after its apex, and the quality of many varieties has suffered. In particular, connoisseurs have long looked down on sherry, Marsala and Malaga, considering them suited for the kitchen at best. However, standards have started to rise dramatically in recent years, and both Marsala and sherry are once again attracting attention of fans of fine wine. The typical process for making a fortified wine involves harvesting, crushing and fermenting grapes in the same manner as regular wine. When about half the sugar has been turned into alcohol, the wine is mixed with grape spirits, or brandy, which stops the fermentation. With port, the remaining wine is aged for a year, then blended with other varieties. The result might be a bit heavy to consume by the bottle, but the complexity of a well-blended port or Marsala makes a magnificent drink to sip and contemplate. And as a digestif, a glass of port after a good meal is nearly without equal. Lest you think all good fortified wines come from abroad, Nový Šaldorf's Špalek Family Winery produces a notable bottle in the port style. Called Šaler, it is made with a different blend of grapes each year: One version available now is a mix of two favored Czech varietals, frankovka and modrý Portugal. It has a very good reputation among local wine lovers but there's no word yet on what Admiral Nelson thinks. Evan Rail can be reached at erail@praguepost.com Other articles in Night & Day (20/07/2005): Browse the Current Issue
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