The Prague Post
December 5th, 2008
Prague Property

'Ugly' end to Marquis era

Popular bar shuts down amid acrimony and an alleged bomb threat

By Peter Kononczuk
Staff Writer, The Prague Post
September 14, 2005


GUNTER BARTOŠ/The Prague Post
John-Bruce Shoemaker, right, oversees the last call at the storied expat watering hole Marquis de Sade.

For almost a decade, when a certain breed of expat or impoverished American college student felt a thirst for cheap beer and late-night adventure — and didn't mind too much if the setting was sleazy — there was one bar in Prague that answered the call. Now such drinkers are on their own.

The era of the Marquis de Sade pub in Old Town has ended with the bar's closure following a squabble between the owner and the tenant over rent, complicated by allegations of a bomb threat and claims that the building has fallen into a dangerous state of rat-infested dilapidation.

Exuding a rough and ready appeal that was partly cultivated, partly caused by neglect, with a whiff of decadence that harkened back to its pre-World War II origins as a brothel, the Marquis drew both jaded Prague old hands and curious newcomers in search of pleasures not permitted or not affordable back home. Often the attraction was absinthe, the wormwood extract long favored by artists but now banned in many parts of the world for its reputed psychoactive side effects.

"There were a lot of good times here in the Marquis," says John-Bruce Shoemaker, the American entrepreneur who operated the pub, located on Templová street, for nine and a half years. "I just wish it hadn't ended up so ugly."

Some of Shoemaker's friends say the closure is hardly a surprise, considering the pub's problems, Shoemaker's talent for upsetting people, and a wider trend in Prague toward bars that are sleek but soulless.

The Marquis de Sade was named after the infamous writer and French aristocrat (1740–1814) whose erotic tales gave rise to the term sadism and who was particularly fascinated by rape and violent perversions — practices he claimed provided a way of surpassing the bounds of convention and morality.

The original Marquis de Sade "would have liked Prague and vice versa," says Shoemaker, known to most simply as J.B., a bug-eyed 37-year-old ex-journalist for The National Inquirer.

Shoemaker, who's also a collector of antiques and scientific curiosities, has operated a string of bars in Prague since he arrived here in 1991, looking for adventure.


"The people investing in bars these days are less adventurous
and less hip."

Glen Emery, ex-partner


Shoemaker's friend and former business partner, Glen Emery, 40, says the Marquis, located in a cavernous room with high, ornate ceilings and tattered velvet sofas, was a beautiful space ... but a "manky and skanky and nasty" pub.

"Whenever I'd go in there and it was really packed, I would just turn around and walk out because I had been in the basement in that place," Emery adds.

"Support columns had been ripped out. The Marquis de Sade was just hanging over a pit. If you got a bunch of stag party guys in there jumping up and down it could have collapsed. It would have been a fitting end to John-Bruce, having him collapse into a pit full of rats."

Emery, from Vancouver, Canada, describes Shoemaker, with some affection, as "criminally insane ... he's bonkers." Emery quickly adds, though, that his erstwhile business partner is a great drinking companion. "There's never a boring moment. He's a very clever guy and funny as hell."

Emery and Shoemaker teamed up in 1993 and took over a large section of the Municipal House, a building that these days is one of the city's finest showcases of turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau architecture.

At the time, it was in sorry shape, having been badly neglected under the pre-'89 regime, but the duo installed a bar, cafe and nightclub called Repre, a venture that employed 150 people.

But Emery and Shoemaker fell out over an unpaid bill of tens of thousands of crowns to a large brewery that resulted in Interpol knocking on the door of Emery's relatives in Canada.

The pair later made up. "Life's too short," says Emery.

Nevertheless, such beefs with Shoemaker are not unusual, he says. Emery illustrates the point in a short story he has written, part of an as-yet-unpublished collection titled Prague Unplugged: The Left Skank of the 90s.

The story, set in a dingy pub in Žižkov, recounts Emery meeting an American from New Orleans, who is complaining he has been ripped off and asking how much it would cost to have the perpetrator assassinated. The man the stranger wants dead turns out to be none other than Shoemaker.

Emery jokes that his friend is still alive, basically, "because he's as slippery as a bar of soap."

If Shoemaker remains in good health, many seasoned expats lament that establishments like the Marquis are rapidly disappearing from Prague's landscape, replaced by more-profitable but less-colorful cocktail bars.

"The people investing in bars these days are less adventurous and less hip, but they're more businessmen," says Emery, himself a veteran owner of several Prague pubs over the years. "Some of us who came here right after the revolution, we didn't come here to necessarily make money — we came here to have fun and to do something interesting." Now, Emery adds, it's mostly business people who want a return for their investment.

For all his faults, Shoemaker could never be accused of that; he says his troubles at the Marquis started 18 months ago after a new owner bought the building and raised the monthly rent from 85,000 Kč ($3,630) to 208,000 Kč.

Shoemaker balked, arguing that the price was far too much for a building he says is rat-infested with a kitchen that floods when it rains and toilets that mostly don't work. He admits that he stopped paying rent over six weeks ago but insists that he was willing to make a deal and pay off his debts.

In the meantime tensions escalated, culminating, Shoemaker says, in a rocket-propelled grenade being left outside the door of his office at the end of August. The grenade turned out to be a dummy used for training purposes. Police say they are investigating the incident.

Shoemaker, unshaken, is already planning his next venture. He wants to write a book, "a true story of people I know [that] involves the Olympics, multinational corporations, drugs, murder, rap stars, steroids and beautiful dead women."

He also wants to open a city-center pub specializing in beer produced by independent breweries using age-old techniques — beer that's usually sold only locally in small towns, meaning that most Czechs and tourists don't get to taste it. Shoemaker wants to export the idea to six cities abroad, such as Vienna, Berlin and Warsaw.

Whatever becomes of that idea, those who know the Marquis, as many simply called it, say it was surely a last remnant of the heady post-'89 days.

One bartender who worked for Shoemaker until the two parted acrimoniously contends that bars like the Marquis, where "you never knew what was going to happen from night to night," are rare indeed these days in the city.

"We had some really wild times in there. I think Prague has lost a little bit of its edge in the last couple of years."

Peter Kononczuk can be reached at pkononczuk@praguepost.com



Reader's Comments:
[26/07/2006] : I was in The Marquis de Sade in March 2006 , it was open then, but was closed last year (2005) in October.
Phil Truscott
Middlesbrough UK
[16/11/2005] : Sad news that 'Marquis De Sade' is no more!

Now I'm really proud to own a relic from that place: when I visited Prague in July 1999, I used to come to 'Marquis De Sade' every night for the duration of my stay in town.. On the first night, I got absolutely blasted by drinking absinth and asked a young waitress to sell me the 'Marquis De Sade' green polo shirt she was wearing... She was really surprised first, but then made up her mind and in a few moments brought me her accurately folded top which I've accepted with great pleasure and paid her 20 crons... She had a great sense of humour, that girl! :)

Great memories of the great bar in the great city!!!
Vitaly Shlimak
Melbourne, Australia
[25/10/2005] : Where were you when the fun stopped?

I have just heard the news that Marquis De Sade's has closed and it has hit me hard? It was a wonderful, excessive and massively enchanting place that typified the magical, mysterious heart of Prague and it will be sorely missed. I have drank in many bars, pubs and clubs in many cities, in many countries, but I have never found one that encompassed the true decadent heart of boozing and hedonism as this grungy womb of revelry did.

I have never known a place to allow miscreants and outcasts to blend with tourists and travellers with such ease and without conflict. With it's half-cut, sometimes self-flagellating (!) barmaids, dim lighting, 25-foot-high cracked ceiling, bloated, Dali-esque wall paintings, crusty, beer-stained couches and feted air of smoke and sweat, it truly lived up to its sordid name?!

There was no glamour about De Sade's - it was all about glut! And those that went there saluted it for that reason. I have visited Prague - both in winter, when the snow heaped up on the street outside the smeared window, and in the heart of summer, when the temperature seemed to stay well in the 20s far into the night - and the place ALWAYS carried a rowdy and seductive charm.

It was a fine retreat a person could rely on when in town for a warm, often wild atmosphere, and intriguing characters. I spent many long, swollen nights there hooting, swaying, harassing/being harassed by strangers while swigging excessive amounts of Staropramen beer, rum-heavy Cubra Libre cocktails, and, of course, the odd-shot of Absinthe (make the heart grow stronger).

The strangest thing about Marquis De Sade's was that, however late it got, I never once recall closing time being called. Until now?

R.I.P - M.D.S.




Tim Curphey
Hove
[22/10/2005] : Damn, reading this makes me feel like my heart is dying. I spent there so many nice moments.. sigh
Michal Ruzicka
prague
[23/09/2005] : During my 6 month stint in Prague in 2000, I (along with my roommates, Andy and Brooks) was at the Marquis 6 nights a week. I've not been back since, and I have looked forward to returning to show my wife and friends the Prague I knew. Now that I think about it, though, maybe they wouldn't want to see it. Nevertheless, the Marquis de Sade will always have a place in my heart, and I'll always know that JB really was grateful that time that I kept him from driving his orange beamer home completely hammered.
Pete Wagner
Brooklyn, NY
[20/09/2005] : Although the Marquis de Sade certainly had its share of drawbacks, Prague lost just a little bit of its soul with its closing. Hopefully, it's repacement is not another TGI Fridays or McDonalds.

Lee Rudnicki, Esq.
http:///wwww.drumlaw80.com
Lee Rudnicki
Los Angeles, CA
[20/09/2005] : As the publisher of think Magazine, I've known JB for quite some time and always found his acerbic wit quite interesting, even when it was pointed at me. The Marquis was like the ugly chick you picked up at the end of along night after all the fine girls had gone home... comforting, didn't smell too bad, and with the right stuff in your glass, kinda grew on you. I was really saddened during my leaving Prague to have JB send me a death threat via SMS (one of the many that came) accusing me of steeling hundreds of thousands of crowns from his office desk. So I'll take this parting good bye to the Marquis to say, "John, I never touched your blinking money!" Good luck!
Jeffree Benet, publisher, Think Magazine (www.think.cz)
Jeffree Benet
Singapore
[20/09/2005] : Yes, there were times when the beer was putrid. The toilets were a class below the foulest Czech train station crappers. And some nights the place just straight-up reeked. But goddamn, am I ever going to miss Marquis (though I was startled to learn that the bar was hanging over a pit).

The high ceiling, that wonderful Jackson Pollock-like painting opposite the bar (I've always wanted to know who painted it), the friendly bar staff, the great music (both on the stereo and live) will all be missed. What I liked best about Marquis was the fact that it was a place where I could chill when I craved a little solitude, whether it was empty or packed. When it was packed, the crowds were never the same, but they were always lively. And that's what I really dug - the fact that Marquis was a place where I could be in a crowd but not run into people I knew when I really felt like being on my own. Every city needs a bar like that, a bar where people can just lose themselves in their thoughts, the setting, a few drinks, and a friendly crowd.

Marquis was never a "beautiful people" bar, the kind of bar that was properly described in the article as "sleek and soulless" (e.g. Zero, M1, and their ilk). Marquis had soul to spare.
Patrick Seguin
Prague
[20/09/2005] : A part of Prague has died. A part so important to many. Marqui has helped alot of people deal with their problems and to find the answers to the questions they were dealing with. A great loss. JB - alot of people cant wait for your new place. Make sure you announce its opening!
Andrey S
Prague
[17/09/2005] : Not my favourite pub in Prague during my five years in the city - the beer was disgusting - but I agree that another interesting landmark with character has disapppeared - and that most Prague drinking spots are now characterless and the alcoholic charm is rapidly disappearing from the city.
edward watkin
Belgrade
[16/09/2005] : My first acquaintance with the Marquis was in 1999 as a lodger with a family in an apartment above the pub. When I took the room I didn't know that loud music would blast through my window until 2AM. The Marquis was covered by skylights and had no acoustic protection. The tenants were at a loss what to do about it. Their frequent calls to the police always resulted in laconic answers that it was licensed and quite legal. I remember making up a list of steps to deal with the noise problem: A petition for the city council, protesters outside the pub entrance, eventually TV news features. I have no idea if anything was done, but I for one, will be glad to see the place go. I just hope that the new tenant will not repeat past offenses.
Jonathan Spector
Israel




The Prague Post Online contains a selection of articles that have been printed in
The Prague Post, a weekly newspaper published in the Czech Republic.
To subscribe to the print paper, click here.
Unauthorized reproduction is strictly prohibited.