Whenever I want to surprise visitors to Bratislava, I bring them to the Petržalka housing project. Though not the city's most beautiful sight, its expanse of identical concrete towers sticks in the mind, coming up in conversation long after other details of the visit fade from memory. But Petržalka is not the only surprise in town. Slovakia's capital is full of spots overlooked by guidebooks that spell out this city's fascinating history and harbor its distinct charm.

Perched between the Slavic, German and Hungarian worlds, Bratislava has a colorful history: Just 100 years ago it was still called Pressburg and only 10 percent of its inhabitants spoke Slovak, compared to a 60-30 split for Hungarian and German. Though overshadowed by Budapest and Vienna, it was the Habsburg capital for 250 years after the Turks seized what are today Hungary and Romania. During this period Pressburg saw the coronation of Maria Theresa and 18 other royals, and the city remained her preferred home. A coronation festival each September draws attention to this past glory in an attempt to write Bratislava back into the empire's history.

But it is not just the imperial past that is overlooked: Jewish history here is also rich but relatively uncelebrated. Perhaps this is because so little evidence of it is left, though the remainder bears great spiritual importance: Upriver from the Nový most bridge lies the Chatam Sofer Memorial, named for one of Judaism's most famous Talmudic scholars and a forefather of its Modern Orthodox branch.

Unfortunately, the busy road that crosses the Danube on the Nový most plowed over the city's main synagogue and almost all of the Jewish quarter. But the peaceful neighborhood under the castle has its share of atmospheric cafés that tourists often overlook. A top pick is Vydrica, a cozy, denlike spot with heavy tables and an understanding staff. Down the hill but still on the castle side of the road is another of Bratislava's hidden charms: Next Apache, a café and English bookstore. Run by a long-term Canadian transplant, this is a place to get some good local hints.

Marvelous monstrosities

I can let you in on one such hint right away: Bratislava's socialist architecture is both funny and fascinating. Not far from the main train station, seek out Kaviareň U Jozefa, a coffeehouse that maintains its communist-chic interior in perfect condition.

If a cup of communist coffee sparks your taste for all things socialist, just down the street is Freedom Square (Námestie slobody) with a giant spurting metal fountain shaped like an opening flower. Popular with locals, this square is often full of young and old relaxing, playing games or staring into each other's eyes.

For an unusual sight, peek into the lobby of the Slovak Telecom headquarters on the square's north side: Called a pater noster, the elevator in this 1950s functionalist building has no doors and runs continuously. Like characters in an old video game, workers stand by the doorways and jump in as the platforms pass by.

Other socialist-era buildings have more complicated tales to tell. The asymmetrical suspension design of Nový most was the first in the world of its type, a testament to Slovak creativity as social and political life opened up in pre-1968 Czechoslovakia.

However, the bridge reached completion only after Warsaw Pact troops ended the liberalizing trend of the Prague Spring. Pushed out of public life and their seats at the university for their opposition to the invasion, the architects — Jozef Lacko, Ladislav Kušnír, and Ivan Slameň — did not receive invitations to the opening. The regime even refused to credit them, lauding instead the "workers of the state planning and design institute" on the memorial plaque.

A new restaurant recently opened in the disc atop the bridge, featuring extravagant fusion food with extravagant prices to match. But for just 50 Sk ($1.50/40 Kč), you can ride to the rooftop observation deck and take in a splendid 360-degree panorama of the city and the hills that surround it, including the Petržalka district that so fascinates my guests.

Mediterranean on the Danube

For the merely interested, the view from here will satisfy. But for the truly curious, a bus ride into the development is highly recommended. A visit to Petržalka also brings you close to one of Bratislava's most relaxing corners: a grassy far embankment on the Danube. Here the Propeller Rock Garden serves beer and Kofola, attracting the young and carefree to spend the warm months playing Frisbee and watching the barges sail by. For something a little more romantic, just upriver is Au Café, a quiet restaurant and café with a well-groomed outdoor garden.

An afternoon watching the steady flow of the Danube calms the spirit. Back over the bridge in the city proper is everything you need for an enjoyable evening. Try a royal dinner at Tempus Fugit, whose lovely interior marries modern chic with medieval richness. To check out the city's hipster scene, stop in for a bite or a beer at Verne, an easygoing spot warmly done up with old radios, quirky dioramas and other antique bric-a-brac.