 |
|
| Contact Us | Classifieds | Search: |
Purchase online
BOL Online
|
Up and down
Big names dropping, but small producers are clearly on the rise
Staff Writer, The Prague Post 2nd December, 2004 Are the great names of Czech beer taking a turn for the worse? In the beer-drinking world, the Czech Republic holds a place of some distinction, known as the ancestral home of the Pilsner style, best embodied by Pilsner Urquell, and the source of the moniker — at the very least — of several other brands: the two Budweisers, both named after the south Bohemian town of Ceske Budejovice, and Michelob, named after central Bohemia's Mecholupy. Add in the world-leading per-capita consumption of around 320 beers per year, and you've got a country whose zymologic reputation seems unassailable. But that reputation has come under fire in recent months. First there were comments from one of the world's great authorities, the "Beer Hunter," Michael Jackson, about the gradual decline of Pilsner Urquell's flavor. Then a delegation from Britain's Campaign for Real Ale, or CAMRA, made similar comments which were widely reported by the Czech News Agency, later appearing in the newspapers Mlada fronta Dnes and Hospodarske noviny. Among those were the words of CAMRA Director Mike Brenner, who was quoted as saying that the country's great reputation could be ruined by the increasing dominance — and ownership — of multinational breweries. "I think this is incredible insolence," says Jan Vesely, chairman of the Czech Association of Breweries and Malt Houses, adding that he finds the criticism unfair, incompetent and insulting. Insulting it may be. But CAMRA has a reputation for doing great things for beer and brewing. One of the world's most successful grassroots organizations, CAMRA champions traditional brewing methods, publishes guidebooks to great beers and has expanded its work to include the purchase of historic pubs and breweries in order to make sure they stay in business. CAMRA's own reputation may be impressive but not everyone in Prague took their comments at face value. At a recent event organized by Honza Kocka of the "World of Beer" Web site, svetpiva.cz , in conjunction with the Spolek pivnich znalcu, or Club of Beer Connoisseurs, some guests speculated that the comments of CAMRA were part of a marketing ploy by the rivals of Pilsner Urquell. Such conspiracies are doubtful. What is less doubtful is this: Beer tastes best where it is brewed, and smaller production often means better beer — no matter where you are. In fact, among the country's microbreweries and brewpubs, the quality of beer seems not to be in decline — rather, it is heading through the roof. While the multinational big boys are busy making advertising campaigns, smaller brewers around the Czech Republic are making outstanding lagers. Ultimately, the country's brewing reputation might ride -- and rise -- on their shoulders. -- Dan Macek and wire services contributed to this report. U krale Jecminka Ujezd 4 Prostejov, North Moravia Tel. 582 346 401 Among other treats, Marcel Londovsky's unique north Moravian brewpub serves wheat beer, a 16° bottom-fermented porter, and 10° and 12° lagers. Dark gold in appearance, the latter clocks in at 4.6 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) and boasts fruity flavors and a full malt body. Richter Brewery Bulovka 17 Prague 8-Liben Tel. 284 840 650 Prague's newest brewery features a very cloudy "yeast beer" with a pale orange color, a loose, chalk-white head, a fragrant hops scent and warming malt notes to the nose, with a crisp citrus and slightly yeasty initial taste followed by perfectly balanced bittersweet flavors. Pegas Hotel and Microbrewery Jakubska 4 Brno Tel. 542 210 104 This neighborhood beer hall and hotel in the center of the country's second city offers excellent microbrews and decent Czech-style pub food. Our favorite: the crisp, breadlike, very cloudy, unfiltered and unpasteurized Pegas lager. Sklarna Novosad a syn minipivovar Novy svet 95 Harrachov v Krkonosich Tel. 481 528 141 Three years ago the Harrachov glassworks installed a brewery to satisfy the demands of its workers, who regularly toil in temperatures approaching 60° C (140° F). The payoff: an outstanding, well-hopped 12° Pilsner-style beer with a strong malt body and a bittersweet finish.
Evan Rail can be reached at
erail@praguepost.com
|
The Prague Post Online contains a selection of articles that have been printed in
The Prague Post, a weekly newspaper published in the Czech Republic.
To subscribe to the print paper, click here.
Unauthorized reproduction is strictly prohibited.